Pre-Build Questions

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ChrisM
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Pre-Build Questions

Post by ChrisM »

Getting ready to build a 50W #124 ODS. Just ordered the chassis and have some questions...

Getting Parts:
Where can I get all the eyelet boards I need (main, power, bias, FET, 12V). I don't like to make my own boards. Is there someone I can buy these boards off of?

Where can I get the 5 wire DIN cable and sockets?

Random Part Questions:
The 1mF presence cap and the 4.7mF caps on the FET board. Are they tantalum they sure look like it?

Is the 100pF cap on the FET board a silver mica?

I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. I figure this is better cause I wont have issues with voltage dropping off when all relays are engaged. Is this correct thinking? Any issues with using this transformer?

I see on the real 124 HAD used fancy over spec 1% cathode resistors. I cant imagine they have much to any effect on tone. Seems most people just use carbon film. Is this the way to do it?

Tweaking:
Seems like lots of tweaking can be done by playing with pot's value. Besides the stock pots what else should I stock up on?


Thanks![/b]
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Bob-I
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by Bob-I »

ChrisM wrote:Where can I get the 5 wire DIN cable and sockets?
mouser has the din sockets. I used a MIDI cable for mine.
The 1mF presence cap and the 4.7mF caps on the FET board. Are they tantalum they sure look like it?
yes
Is the 100pF cap on the FET board a silver mica?
you can use silver mica or ceramic. either is fine
I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. I figure this is better cause I wont have issues with voltage dropping off when all relays are engaged. Is this correct thinking? Any issues with using this transformer?
You only need 12V. That xformer is overkill. 6-0-6 will do the job just fine.
I see on the real 124 HAD used fancy over spec 1% cathode resistors. I cant imagine they have much to any effect on tone. Seems most people just use carbon film. Is this the way to do it?
no need to 1% resistors, but check them before installing.
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ChrisM
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by ChrisM »

Hey thanks for the advice Bob.

Can you link me to the cable and sockets on Mouser? I looked for them but could not find them :? .
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Bob-I
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by Bob-I »

ChrisM wrote:Hey thanks for the advice Bob.

Can you link me to the cable and sockets on Mouser? I looked for them but could not find them :? .
The cable is just a MIDI cable, cut off the ends and wire it to the DIN connectors.

The sockets and jacks are 5 pin locking DIN made by Deltron. I don't have the part number but you should be able to find it from that.
tubedogsmith
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by tubedogsmith »

I use the Kobicon 5 pin DIN jacks, mouser part # 161-0005 I put one in the amp and one in the pedal box and then get the 5 pin MIDI cords at GC with two male ends. Anything you can do to keep from wiring that cable to a plug is worth it in my book.
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odourboy
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by odourboy »

Chris,

In T-dot you can buy the 5 pin female DINs from Sayal Electronics. Also, I just bought a couple of MIDI cables off Ebay to use with a recent build:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0432212091

Cheep shipping to Canada

PM me if you want to yak about building - I'm in Port Credit.

Cheers, Brian
"Let's face it, the non HRMs are easier to play, there, I've said it." - Gil Ayan... AND HE"S IN GOOD COMPANY!

Black chassis' availble: http://cepedals.com/Dumble-Style-Chassis.html
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ChrisM
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by ChrisM »

Hey guys

Any idea where I can buy solid core PVC in smallish quantities?

Also I am using a 12V-0V-12V transformer. Should I bother using the voltage doubler circuit. Or should I just setup a full wave recto with two diodes and add the necessary filtering?

I dont think I need the voltage doubling and a full wave seems more stable than a voltage doubler.
talbany
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by talbany »

Chris

Here is mouser# on 20AWG Solid core white.. Great wire, sits well in the chassis, easy to strip and work with, looks good and rated 1000v.. I recommend it highly..
(I used to get wire from Apex but is not on a spool... A personal irritant..)

I need my wire to be on a spool Damn it!!!

602-1563-100-01
20AWG SOLID WHT 1KV 07/14/09 1 21.730 21.73


Tony VVT

What if this is as good as it gets!!
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dano-rator
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by dano-rator »

I need my wire to be on a spool Damn it!!!
Chuck an old spool in the drill press and let 'er rip! :lol:
Normster
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by Normster »

Apex Jr is probably still the best deal going for solid core with a teflon jacket. For PVC, I like the wire from McMaster. Great price and you can order in quantities as little as 25ft.

When using a 12-0-12V transformer, use one leg plus the center tap into a full-wave bridge. This will give you about 15V rectified (as I recall) which is just about right for an LM7812 voltage regulator.
briane wrote:... it really is a journey, and you just can't farm out the battle wounds.
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Structo
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by Structo »

After having a few instances of trouble with solid core wire I moved on to the stranded teflon.
If you bend the solid core one too many times it can break and in one case it broke just inside the jacket causing several days of hair loss.

I do like to use solid core for heater wires because it stays where you bend it but for all flying leads I prefer stranded 600v Teflon or PVC. :wink:
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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ChrisM
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by ChrisM »

Thanks for the Mouser help Tony.

As for Aprex Jr. are you guys talking about PTFE wire at the top of this page http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html ? Also so you have to call to place your order?

Finally it looks like in real ODS the wire is a thinish guage. Maybe the insulation is just minimal. What do you think AWG 22 or 20?
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Structo
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Re: Pre-Build Questions

Post by Structo »

It's best to call Apex as he doesn't show everything he has on the site.
Then you can pick his brain about the wire he has.

I believe the original ODS amps such as #124 used PVC wire and it should be rated at 600v.
Possibly 400v wire would work fine.

If you are trying for an exact clone check out ic-racer's posts since I think he has pulled it off concerning #124.

The neat thing about Teflon wire is that you won't be melting or burning the insulation when you accidentally touch your iron to it or when weaving the iron through wires.

The Teflon shielded cable is great as well since you won't melt the inner jacket when heating up the braided shield.

I suppose it just depends on how authentic to #124 you want or need to be.
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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