kleinm wrote:Out of curiousity, did you get down to the finest detail with things like the Rubycon capacitors, Mallory polyester ODs, sealed potentiometers, etc? I'm hoping I can build an Express this summer, and I've read varying opinions on what REALLY matters and what doesn't as much.
To be honest I really don't know what matters the most either. Though I have my opinions and to a certain extent I think EVERYTHING matters in these things. There are some "knowns" in these things, and some "unknowns". I choose to find everything I possiby could, but probably at the top of the list for me was the Pacific transformers and BUD chassis. Not that other transformers aren't totally fine, but I was specifically copying my original that HAS Pacifics. I couldn't find any Rubycons and I used CGE pots which aren't sealed but neither were those in my original. I liked the fact that the CGEs were fairly decent and you can solder to them which helps copy the layout more closely. Also I got a vendor to hand pick some that very closely match the values in my original, some of which were a bit different then marked. I did use two original thin aluminum BUD chassis with screw on bottom plates, just like the original. Also I used original spec Pacific transformers like my original. A few other details I copied on my original were NOS Cinch tube sockets, Lorin output selector, Mallory PVC signal caps in the proper .02, .002, and .1 values (instead of the more easily found .0022s and .022s), PVC wire in matching colors, original spec board material and flea clips, NOS 25 watt 1k resistor that matched original perfectly, Switchcraft jacks, fairly high flux content leaded solder, Cherry cab, two wood chassis reinforcement dowels, window weatherstrip, and I matched the layout and lead dress of my original down to within a millimeter or two, and the mechanical placement of everything to at least 1mm, and I tubed them with the same tubes I favor in my original, etc. I only used shielded cable on the input lead, and both amps are 100% stable with all knobs cranked to 10 even with the bottom plate taken off. Other than just yesterday upping the PI cap to 250pf, they are 100% copies with no other changes. If it weren't for the date codes on some of the caps and the pot and switch brands, these amps could probably be passed off as originals if you saw the chassis inside. That said, I stamped them both 2007 so that no one (if they somehow got out of my hands) could ever pass them off as originals even if they faked a logo and tube chart. Ken wasn't with us (sadly) by 2007.
Heck half of my attention to detail probably didn't matter. But instead of questioning it all this is how I approached it. It was fun anyway, even to make it look right. I don't plan to build any other amps period, so I just wanted to get what I needed done right from the start. That said, just for backup in case something ever happens to either of my amps I have one spare set of transformers and one BUD chassis on the shelf. To be honest I only like building for about the 1st hour, and I put off this whole project for years and years.
I've needed to do this all for a long time now, as with the values of the original Wreck so high it's too much worry to take the original out much anymore unless I plan to baby sit the thing.