Mystery Tranny

[titanicslim]

Hi, Troops! No, this is not about that lady you saw me with last night. I'm hoping somebody can help me figure out what kind of PT I've got.

Some time back I got a good sized (I'm guessing and hoping it's about 300-300 and 200mA.) power transformer as an extra in a swap and I'm trying to figure out what it is. Stamped on one bell cover is
K119J14 -and right below that is
366318 . It's got a sloppy "EE" stamped in white paint on both bells.

There are seven leads coming out of each port and after de-soldering from a terminal strip and two rectifier tube sockets, I'm just about certain on them all- pending a check with a 12v "wall wart". I'm using one that is supposed to be 14v but is putting out 20v. That would mean if I multiply X6 I get the 120v equivalent, right?

But nothing makes sense. All readings are way low. I know which ones are the 5v 2ndaries and am pretty sure about the 6.3v ones (which I have leapt ahead and guessed it even has, and the HVs I know. They read by far the highest but still only about 125v after I multiply.

The leads are nice, old, dense hounds tooth cloth and it seems to be a quality unit, about the size of a Fender Twin PT.

Any ideas?
Dave

[titanicslim]

Something else I should probably mention-

There are two leads going to the outside terminals of a pair of in-line fuses. I just noticed the strip under one is marked, "110v" and under the other is "117v". And now it appears about 99% certain that the brown lead clipped from the power connector went to the inside terminals of those fuses!

I guess that is the primary voltage selector - just install a fuse in whichever side matches your wall voltage and leave the other empty. I suppose it eventually comes to you if you just stare at it long enough!

Then there is the ground wire from the power connector- where it connects to the 0v taps from the PT, it also connects to a parallel pair of 220k resistors that connect to a tranny lead that has continuity only with those two primaries coming in from the wall via that in-line fuse/selector.

:bumfuddled:

[skyboltone]

Power Transformers
Primary Leads Black
If it is tapped:
Common Black
Tap Black / Yellow
End Black / Red
High Voltage Winding Red
(center tap) Red / Yellow
Rectifier Filament Winding Yellow
(center tap) Yellow / Blue
Filament Winding #1 Green
(center tap) Green / Yellow
Filament Winding #2 Brown
(center tap) Brown / Yellow
Filament Winding #3 Slate
(center tap) Slate / Yellow
IF Transformers
Plate Lead Blue
B+ Lead Red
Grid (or diode) Lead Green
A-V-C (or ground) Lead Black
Tuning Slug Color Codes
455 kHz 1st IF Yellow
455 kHz 2nd IF White
455 kHz 3rd IF Black
455 kHz Oscillator Red
10 MHz 1st IF Green
10 MHz 2nd IF
10 MHz 3rd IF Orange, Brown, or Black
Audio Transformers
Plate Lead, Primary Blue
B+ Lead, Primary
(w/or w/o center-tap) Red
Plate Lead
(center-tapped primary) Brown (or Blue*)
Grid Lead, Secondary Green
Grid Lead
(center-tapped secondary) Yellow (or Green*)
Grid Return, Secondary Black

I find most single filament winding PTs to have yellow wires for 5V, brown wires with green center tap for 6.3V. Otherwise, this will do.

[titanicslim]

Thanks, Sky!

I've printed that out and stuck it on my cabinet door.

Unfortunately, this thing doesn't care about the list, as I know for sure that, not only the 5v filaments, but the 6.3vs AND the HVs (I clipped them from the rectifier base) are all yellow. There are yellow/blue and yellow/green leads but they are the primaries coming from either side of that 110/117v fusing arrangement I mentioned earlier. The common on the power connector is RED, but there's no trace of where that was hooked up.

I guess I will have to keep trying to make the low voltage wart thing work, at least 'til I find out for sure I'm not gonna blow it up with 120v, then just tie everything off and test it. Don't know what else there is to do.

Thanks for the help!
Dave

PS> You inspired me to finally make an avatar. That's my 7-month-old "Murphy". Half Shepherd- half alligator.

[skyboltone]

Thanks, Sky!

I've printed that out and stuck it on my cabinet door.

Unfortunately, this thing doesn't care about the list, as I know for sure that, not only the 5v filaments, but the 6.3vs AND the HVs (I clipped them from the rectifier base) are all yellow. There are yellow/blue and yellow/green leads but they are the primaries coming from either side of that 110/117v fusing arrangement I mentioned earlier. The common on the power connector is RED, but there's no trace of where that was hooked up.

I guess I will have to keep trying to make the low voltage wart thing work, at least 'til I find out for sure I'm not gonna blow it up with 120v, then just tie everything off and test it. Don't know what else there is to do.

Thanks for the help!
Dave

PS> You inspired me to finally make an avatar. That's my 7-month-old "Murphy". Half Shepherd- half alligator.

Well that's for sure strange. Must be an import. That color code has been a manufacturers standard for longer than I've been alive.

My Avatar is just a good looking male Dobie I found on the net. I have a Dobergirldog without the clipped ears and she's about as sweet an animal as you'ld ever expect to meet, I just haven't ever caught her in that "Dare Me" pose of the big male. You're baby is a good lookin boy to too. When they're young they do seem to be half crocodile until the teeth kinda round over a bit. Is he holding your soldering iron? Good boy!

Dan