I've been asked to mod an AC-30C2.   Finding the schematics was a pita, btw.
Does it use the same Sanecore OT as the CC version?   I ask because the Sanecore CC2 footprint does not match original iron or the MM Woden the customer wants.   You have to drill holes in steel (which I hate).   It's all about scope....
			
			
						AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
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AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
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					Last edited by jaysg on Sat Mar 07, 2015 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
									
			
									
						Re: AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
Wish I could help you jaysg, but I have yet to encounter a C2. My guess is that it probably doesn't match the original Woden/Haddon/Albion/Parmeko etc... footprint. I do very much appreciate you sharing the schematics.
Thank you!
Interesting. No tube rect., no choke, DC heaters, non-traditional Bass(mid) control, op amps galore... Lots of "stuff" there...
			
			
									
									
						Thank you!
Interesting. No tube rect., no choke, DC heaters, non-traditional Bass(mid) control, op amps galore... Lots of "stuff" there...
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				Stevem
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Re: AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
Yes, thanks for posting the info!!
			
			
									
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						Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Re: AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
Yes, thanks for those schematics.
Interesting to use a 47uF reservoir on the plate B+ node, whereas 100uF on the screen grid B+ node.
What VB+ does it operate at?
			
			
									
									Interesting to use a 47uF reservoir on the plate B+ node, whereas 100uF on the screen grid B+ node.
What VB+ does it operate at?
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						Re: AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
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					Last edited by matt h on Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
									
			
									
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				TimmyP1955
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Re: AC-30C2 -- question about the output transformer
Drilling holes in steel is easy.  The mistakes that folks make are using a worn bit, and running the drill at too high a speed (which is likely how the bit became worn).  At too high a speed it stops cutting and just rubs the bit to death.  Start at 0 and gradually increase the speed - you'll see the amount of metal coming off increase, then level out, then decrease - back off some and you have it right.
			
			
									
									
						
