Lorlin CK1455 switch

[brin351]

I'm in Australia and sourcing parts to build the aribreak. I am having trouble getting that exact switch (Lorlin CK1455). I found other Lorlin 2 pole 6 positon switches being (CK1025 & CK1035).

Question : is the specified Lorlin CK1455 switch
1) "make before break" OR "break before make" and does it matter?
2) is it continuious rotation or single and does that matter?

I looked up Mouser for the specks on the CK1455 and the other 2 part numbers I found appear compatible, I could not find CK1455 in the Lorlin data sheets though.

Last question : I made a single ended amp that I can switch tubes on, 6n1p 1/2 watt, el84 5 watt, 6v6 about 8 or so watt. I'm now building a push pull maybe 2 el84's or 6v6's so under 20 watts.

How do you think the aribreak will go with these amps as it's designed to handle up to 100 watts and my amps are alot less also I have a 8 inch 4ohm and 8ohm 10 inch speakers (seperate I just plug in the one I want) is that ok for the airbreak to use either one, I don't want to damage my amps.

Your help is appreciated.

[rooster]

Hi. Well there's rawnster around here with a schematic that has the Mouser part numbers on it - and that particular switch is available from Mouser. But there are other brands, too. I used one that you could change the connections on, go from 1 to 6 I think, by changing a washer affair topside of the switch body. Since I didn't go with the bedroom setting on one, and only used the first 3 positions on another this was a good thing. I will have to look at the brand name because I can't remember. CTS makes one, too, that can be used if you are having a hard time with parts. These are typically open body type but they do the job.

Either way, whatever brand, you want to use a 'make before break' type switch. Oh, and single rotation. (Meaning you want it to change by direction, the levels of cut or boost, turning left to right, or right to left. If it was continuous you could go from very quiet to very loud in one position - probably not a good idea, eh?)

Wait for rawnster's post. I am pretty sure he was sending this out. Or was it Ron Worley??????

[brin351]

Ok thanks so it's a 2 pole, 6 position, make before break, single turn rotary switch. I'm spending enough on the other parts so I might pay a few extra bucks for a bit better quality - (from what others say the lorlin is just ok).

Is there any data files that explain how the aribreak works and how best to use it?

[brin351]

Is there any data files that explain how the aribreak works and how best to use it?

I'll try and answer my own question from how I read the schematic.

There are 5 attunuation levels on the rotory switch that add the xtra resistance/ attenuation the fifth one introduces the variable rheostat described as bedroom level. It will handel up to 100 watt input (4 8 16 ohms) and you can plug a 4 8 16 ohm speaker in the output matching the input load. So your safe to put it between any amp and speaker under 100 watts if the amp could safely driver the speaker without it?

Is that about right.

[brin351]

I hope I'm not being a pest but can anyone please confirm the following about using the airbreak. Thanks

It will handel up to 100 watt input (4 8 16 ohms) and you can plug a 4 8 16 ohm speaker in the output matching the input load. So your safe to put it between any amp and speaker under 100 watts if the amp could safely drive the speaker without it?

[paulster]

I hope I'm not being a pest but can anyone please confirm the following about using the airbreak. Thanks

It will handel up to 100 watt input (4 8 16 ohms) and you can plug a 4 8 16 ohm speaker in the output matching the input load. So your safe to put it between any amp and speaker under 100 watts if the amp could safely drive the speaker without it?

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... ht=#102784

Randall Aiken has a plot showing the impedance with different loads.

It's not the universal panacea of attenuators, as even Ken was prone to use a bit of marketing 'fluff'.

[brin351]

Thanks for your help. From that info it looks like the best impedance matching comes with a 8 ohm load and medium attenuation. High attenuation increses the impedance considerably so I'll be mindful of that.

Cheers

[greekie]

Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but I might just leave some info for future builders with this question in mind - is it worth the trouble to get the Lorin-part or spend the extra bucks on an equally good switch.

The Lorin-switch is very good indeed. 5A continous current at 250V DC or AC, with 50 miliohms contactresistance at max. These are very good specs, and the switch is at the price Mouser usually charges a bargain. So go for it - also good for switching mains voltage, impedance on your amp, etc.

I thought this might be useful to some.