More 'life' to high plate cleans

[norburybrook]

Charlie that layout is coming out without much info for me. Sort of like someone's started to do a layout and then stopped after 5 minutes.

I've tried downloading and opening a few times.


Is it just me?


Marcus

[Charlie Wilson]

Hmm, it seems to come up OK when I click on the post. I am not sure how to fix that. Maybe delete it and reattach it?
CW

[rogb]

Yeah! I think Lance has answered all the questions right there if that is a 2nd Gen based build.
I used the Hybrid and original Talbany 2nd Gen layouts to build mine and I thank both of those guys for giving us that

[norburybrook]

who's Lance?

anyway here's what I'm getting.



Marcus

[rogb]

who's Lance?

anyway here's what I'm getting.



Marcus

Lance Keltner, the player in the video.

Maybe right click on the Download link and "save link as" will work for you?
I managed to convert it to JPG, is that better?

[norburybrook]

thanks Roger, that's perfect

I'll have a look and see how much it differs from where I'm at now, by the looks of it I'm not that far on the clean side.

Marcus

[norburybrook]

looks interesting. No local NFB, also a 12AT7 for the phase inverter, overall looks a bit simpler.

might give this a go as I've started straying away from the stock #102 anyway.


Anyone got any good tips for removing and re inserting new caps/resistors into eyelets? just those couple I've done were a real PIA. A lot of them also have wires coming in from the bottom as well so how do you guys do this when repairing or replacing components?




Marcus

[martin manning]

See below...

[norburybrook]

thanks Martin, but when de soldering components to remove do you use a solder sucker or braid to remove the old solder and try and end up with a clean eyelet? obviously this would give a larger chance for under cables to come out if they're not done exactly like the picture...which of course mine aren't

the problem seems to be getting new components back into a hole that is now, because of old solder, much smaller than a new fresh eyelet.



Marcus

[martin manning]

I find a solder-sucker is better for removing the bulk of the solder, but then I use desoldering braid to get the remainder out of the eyelet (or lug or PCB). If you clear the eyelet out, you can see if the under-board wires are still in place. Also, don't put a lot of solder into the eyelet in the first place, and don't let it build up as you swap components.

[Structo]

Yes I have ended up with blobs of solder under the eyelets before from changing components out.

I have a little dental mirror now so I can look under the board to see if there is excess solder.

[John_P_WI]

There are several methods, the easiest is to 1) add flux to the joint 2) add a small amount of fresh solder 3) use a dental pick or other similar tool to lift a leg of the component out of the eyelet whilst applying heat from the iron. 4) use a solder sucker to remove the solder. 5) add flux and resolder. 6) clean up with IPA and inspect.

[Charlie Wilson]

I would like to echo Martins diagram. Under the board wires should have the wire crimped on the top side of the board (like Dumble did). Under the board wires should be routed away from the eyelets especially the plate supply wires (if there is no backing board). Usually if there is solder left in the eyelet after I remove a component reheating it will usually pull it back up to the top. Solder sucker is a must! Use larger than 1/8" eyelets for those places that have four or more leads and/or wires in the same eyelet. It makes it way easier to reinstall components if you need to.
CW

[Structo]

I also have a set of high quality dental tools that I use when getting into tight places.

I have never really used the de-soldering braid or wick.

I think I tried it a long time ago and it didn't work for me.

So I use a couple different solder suckers that get the job done quickly.
Yes they can take more up keep and new tips once in a while but if
you keep them clean they will last a lifetime.

Probably from repairing pcb boards is when I found the solder suckers.

Don't buy the cheap small suckers, it's a waste of money!

http://www.edsyn.com/product/DS017.html

http://www.edsyn.com/product/DHT/PT209.html

[10thTx]

rogb,

How close is this schematic to what you have? Anyway that you could edit it to have it represent what you are using, please?

I tried to follow your layout drawing, but got lost in several areas trying to figure out what is going to and from the relays?

NOT sure about the clean Master volume and the OD Master volume for example? Not sure about the presence either? OR the B+ rail filtering?

With respect, 10thtx

I have attached an editable SCH version if you or anyone else would like to try and edit it that one instead & post a corrected version?

NOTE that the SCH version has the PT and B+ rail on it on a 2nd page.