#124 started

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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

Happy new Year everyone.


Got home form my New Year break in the Highlands of Scotland last night so had a spare day today :D


I think I'm done!!!!!

I've not put an FET board in and just added a 33k grid stopper alongside the 22k of the normal. Doubt I'll hear a difference but thought it was worth a shot.


I wonder if I'll keep my 100% record of OT primaries being the wrong way round?

Going to do some checking before I tentatively fire her up tomorrow.

If anyone spots anything let me know.

Still can't seem to build as pretty as some of you guys.


what's the deal with the ground switch? I've wired it in but not sure what it's for and how to use it.

Marcus
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dcribbs1412
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Re: #124 started

Post by dcribbs1412 »

Looks good
Do you have a bulb limiter for startup?

D
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

yes I do :D

it's hard to get bulbs though these days.

M
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martin manning
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Re: #124 started

Post by martin manning »

Looking good Marcus! I can still find the (old) standard incandescent bulbs, but if that gets tough I think the specialty types for chandeliers and sconces will persist for a while. They are available in 60W.
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

thanks :D


what about that ground switch?

does it reverse the polarity and remove the ground?

what should it be set at for normal use?




M
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martin manning
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Re: #124 started

Post by martin manning »

As you can see in the schematic the ground switch connects a cap from one mains line or the other to ground, with the idea being that you could get rid of some EMI noise with the switch one way or the other. The cap should really be a Type X2/Y2 (fails open) to be safe. You can see if it makes any difference, but a line filter IEC might be a better option.
Last edited by martin manning on Wed Jan 04, 2017 8:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

didn't think about looking at the schematic!!! thanks.

the original had a regular 600v orange drop so I've used that.

The problem with IEC sockets is cutting out a hole....it's not a simple shape.

should I look towards replacing the cap at a later date? can you recommend anything?

tomorrow's the big day.


M
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martin manning
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Re: #124 started

Post by martin manning »

If your switch has a center-off position then the cap is out of the picture, but many people just don't install the cap. Being a 600V running at around half that p-p voltage it is pretty safe, but doesn't meet modern standards. Below is a more modern version of a simple cheap EMI filter.
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lovetone
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Re: #124 started

Post by lovetone »

Can I ask, what is the resistor for that is across the OD trim pot?

Sorry if this is has been mentioned before.
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

lovetone wrote:Can I ask, what is the resistor for that is across the OD trim pot?

Sorry if this is has been mentioned before.

the original #124 had a 345k pot which is impossible to find. I used a 500k pot and a resistor. I saw it in this thread

https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... 5k++trimer


M
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martin manning
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Re: #124 started

Post by martin manning »

Nice to revisit that discussion again... Well over five years ago already!
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rogb
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Re: #124 started

Post by rogb »

martin manning wrote:Nice to revisit that discussion again... Well over five years ago already!
Fascinating discussion! Great build too Marcus 8)
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

powered on with light bulb limiter.

no shorts....


Checking voltages with no valves

found a non connected heater wire :D

all B+ voltages OK

relay voltages fine

bias now set to -55v


valves going in now.



Marcus
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norburybrook
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Re: #124 started

Post by norburybrook »

Hmmm.

Put the output valves in and they're red plating.

The plate voltage has dropped from 445vDC to 320vDC so something's wrong!!

Any ideas?


marcus


p.s.

schoolboy errors again. I wired the valves as per the original layout but then added the 1r resistors for the bias. you can't do that with the 1.5k resistor across to pin 1 as it will short out both of the bias feeds........ :oops:

I've removed one end from pin 1 and flown the resistor and attached the bias connections to the resistor then to pin 5 instead of pin 1 as shown on the layout.


voltages and red plating all looking good.
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martin manning
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Re: #124 started

Post by martin manning »

Diagnosing and fixing problems on your own now, eh? Good work!
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