ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:40 am
Thanks guys.
Colossal, so far i prefer the 183. I found some correct parts for the 124 and before I tore it down it was also sounding pretty good. Didn't like the 102 at all...but maybe I didn't build it correctly
Tony, there is a pretty big difference with the older NTEs. The newer ones have a duller sound and are not as musical. I wasn't able to find any for the PI so I used the MK3s...not sure how big a difference that will be. The Q-lines also made a big difference even though i couldn't get the exact values. I experimented with Draloric and Piher in the PS and although I'm not sure I can tell a difference (too many things changed at once) it definitely makes a difference in my head The older NTE caps (silver writing) also make a big difference...I AB'd the PI cap and it was night and day to the new production 0.1 NTE.
Jason
183 is a Rock Monster!!
I hear basically the same thing you are I wasn't a big fan of the 'older" Shiny NTE's in the PI (1m)..I thought they made the amp a bit more textured w/ grainy-ness in the mids which is ok in an aggressive sounding amp like 183. I prefer the more violin type texture so I went back to the MK'3.I was rather shocked at the difference these resistors made on the overall sound there. So it really depends on were you want to land ..The best way to describe the Dralorics in the PS is it seems to give it a softer treble response with a bit more compression along with a smoother transition to grind in the top is the best I can describe it.Definitely ,more musial in the way the thing responds IMO. So Dralorics,(Piher') in PS for a smooth slightly compressed treble response and a M.O.for a slightly brighter top that adds some bite.(great for rock)
BTW.. Those older NTE caps are in high demand.Great in a Dumbleator as well!!
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
Tony, the real surprise for me was the tail resistor. I initially had a Draloric in there and after doing some part exchanges with Jelle, he gave me a 24k (no idea what it is) that blew my mind. The amp became clearer and livelier. Total convert
I guess I got lucky with the MK3s in the PI (didn't have the NTEs) ....
I also had a NOS Piher trimmer for the PI balance pot but wanted to keep a close to the original as possible and replaced it with a CTS trimmer. It is a bit brighter which I'm not a fan of but I'm going to spend some more time with it before changing it back.
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:40 am
Colossal, so far i prefer the 183. I found some correct parts for the 124 and before I tore it down it was also sounding pretty good. Didn't like the 102 at all...but maybe I didn't build it correctly.
Interesting! I was/am pretty impressed with 102. Huge, clear everything and lows that just don't quit. Very precise but in a very musical, smooth, and harmonically rich way.
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:40 am
Colossal, so far i prefer the 183. I found some correct parts for the 124 and before I tore it down it was also sounding pretty good. Didn't like the 102 at all...but maybe I didn't build it correctly.
Interesting! I was/am pretty impressed with 102. Huge, clear everything and lows that just don't quit. Very precise but in a very musical, smooth, and harmonically rich way.
You'll have to tell me your secrets I'll probably go back and redo that amp as well and give it a second shot
Abe5150 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 5:31 pm
I'm in the process of building a 183 right now too. What Transformers did you use?
I used Mercury Magnetics for the OT and PT and classictone for the choke:
PT: CER-OTS100-P (it has a separate winding for the relays as well)
OT: O100JM-VZ
Choke: 40-180003
I have also previously used the MM OT MMO-100X but I found the O100JM-VZ is a little softer (less aggressive)
Nice, I went with Heyboer. Why didnt you use the 330uf's? In the 183 pics it looks like 290 is written on the side. Build looks great, congrats.
Thanks. I tried the 330s in an earlier build but they are harder to find in the correct size and you need to change the board layout. I tried the 220 F&Ts and liked what I heard so they stayed.
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:23 pm
Tony, the real surprise for me was the tail resistor. I initially had a Draloric in there and after doing some part exchanges with Jelle, he gave me a 24k (no idea what it is) that blew my mind. The amp became clearer and livelier. Total convert
I guess I got lucky with the MK3s in the PI (didn't have the NTEs) ....
I also had a NOS Piher trimmer for the PI balance pot but wanted to keep a close to the original as possible and replaced it with a CTS trimmer. It is a bit brighter which I'm not a fan of but I'm going to spend some more time with it before changing it back.
Yeah the tail and GNFB resistor matter! If you want to clear it up furter go up on the screens 40uf or even a 60uf especially if you don't have the 300 on the plates.
BTW...Nothing wrong w/F&T's
I prefer the Phier trimmers on high plates and CTS on the Low plates
Enjoy..Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:23 pm
Tony, the real surprise for me was the tail resistor. I initially had a Draloric in there and after doing some part exchanges with Jelle, he gave me a 24k (no idea what it is) that blew my mind. The amp became clearer and livelier. Total convert
I guess I got lucky with the MK3s in the PI (didn't have the NTEs) ....
I also had a NOS Piher trimmer for the PI balance pot but wanted to keep a close to the original as possible and replaced it with a CTS trimmer. It is a bit brighter which I'm not a fan of but I'm going to spend some more time with it before changing it back.
Yeah the tail and GNFB resistor matter! If you want to clear it up furter go up on the screens 40uf or even a 60uf especially if you don't have the 300 on the plates.
BTW...Nothing wrong w/F&T's
I prefer the Phier trimmers on high plates and CTS on the Low plates
Enjoy..Tony
Tony, are you saying increase the first 2 filter caps to 120uf each to get 60uf?
ijedouglas wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 2:23 pm
Tony, the real surprise for me was the tail resistor. I initially had a Draloric in there and after doing some part exchanges with Jelle, he gave me a 24k (no idea what it is) that blew my mind. The amp became clearer and livelier. Total convert
I guess I got lucky with the MK3s in the PI (didn't have the NTEs) ....
I also had a NOS Piher trimmer for the PI balance pot but wanted to keep a close to the original as possible and replaced it with a CTS trimmer. It is a bit brighter which I'm not a fan of but I'm going to spend some more time with it before changing it back.
Yeah the tail and GNFB resistor matter! If you want to clear it up furter go up on the screens 40uf or even a 60uf especially if you don't have the 300 on the plates.
BTW...Nothing wrong w/F&T's
I prefer the Phier trimmers on high plates and CTS on the Low plates
Enjoy..Tony
Tony, are you saying increase the first 2 filter caps to 120uf each to get 60uf?
No.The screen supply cap. Dumble uses a 20uf there which is considered rather low for a screen supply IMO
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
Yeah the tail and GNFB resistor matter! If you want to clear it up furter go up on the screens 40uf or even a 60uf especially if you don't have the 300 on the plates.
BTW...Nothing wrong w/F&T's
I prefer the Phier trimmers on high plates and CTS on the Low plates
Enjoy..Tony
Tony, are you saying increase the first 2 filter caps to 120uf each to get 60uf?
No.The screen supply cap. Dumble uses a 20uf there which is considered rather low for a screen supply IMO
Tony
Tony, what I meant was in the precision power supply, the first 2 caps are 47uf 350V in series giving you 23.5uf 700V for the screens. Did you mean to increase them to 80uf or 120uf in series to give you 40uf or 60uf respectively?
The older NTE caps (silver writing) also make a big difference...I AB'd the PI cap and it was night and day to the new production 0.1 NTE.
I wasn't a big fan of the 'older" Shiny NTE's in the PI (1m)..I thought they made the amp a bit more textured w/ grainy-ness in the mids which is ok in an aggressive sounding amp like 183. I prefer the more violin type texture so I went back to the MK'3.I was rather shocked at the difference these resistors made on the overall sound there. So it really depends on were you want to land ..The best way to describe the Dralorics in the PS is it seems to give it a softer treble response with a bit more compression along with a smoother transition to grind in the top is the best I can describe it.Definitely ,more musial in the way the thing responds IMO. So Dralorics,(Piher') in PS for a smooth slightly compressed treble response and a M.O.for a slightly brighter top that adds some bite.(great for rock) 
