I am also a Teflon wire convert.
If you mod or tweak your amp much, every time you enter the chassis with a soldering iron you are at
risk of burning insulation on PVC or similar wire.
I generally install the socket with the gap between the 1 and 9 pin towards the rear of the chassis.
This helps in two ways, it's easier to swap tubes when you can see the gap between the 1 and 9.
On a Marshall style amp which is tubes up, then it probably doesn't matter.
Also if you want to wire the heaters ala Marshall then it provides the gap to run the 4 and 5 wire across the socket.
On Dumble amps there is a lot on the back panel so most go with the overhead Fender style of wiring.
I run heavier wire on the power tubes and smaller on the preamp.
I twist the wire with a drill, not too tight!
Then cut and bend the wire to fit the amp.
Merlin's heater wiring scheme.
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Merlin's heater wiring scheme.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Merlin's heater wiring scheme.
+1.sabredude wrote:If you are already re-orienting the sockets, why not do the Soldano heater technique of a bus wire down each side?
Twisting heater wires is for people with too much time on their hands.
I don't twist anymore. What a pain. I just do the SLO method but I don't use buss wire, I just use the same wire I used to twist. More important that signal wires cross heater wires above and at 90* angles than anything else.
Twisting does look nice though.
Re: Merlin's heater wiring scheme.
Pertaining to the Marshall method, that's why the heater wire crosses the socket to pin 9 with that style of wiring.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: Merlin's heater wiring scheme.
But the sockets don't have spigots for shielding assistance with hum??