New 1x12 cab

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M Fowler
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Location: Walcott ND

Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by M Fowler »

Yeah its is a well known little tid bit to paint the cab like that to hide any seems. Also I was discussing that with Distortions (Larry) and he had mentioned painting the grill cloth backer plate black as that will show through and make the job look bad.

Nice work.
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benoit
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Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by benoit »

Sonny ReVerb wrote:
benoit wrote:Is the black paint on the inside serving any non-aesthetic purpose?
No, I just thought it looked better with the dark covering. It does hide some of the wood filler I used where there was some tear-out behind the finger joints.
Cool. Did you use a router and a jig for those or just a table saw?
"I never practice my guitar. From time to time I just open the case and throw in a piece of raw meat." --Wes Montgomery
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Sonny ReVerb
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Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by Sonny ReVerb »

I cut the finger joints on my table saw with this jig:

http://www.woodsmithstore.com/boxjoint.html

I bought the hardware kit and built the jig. It did a fine job. I wouldn't have had as much tear-out if I would have used the proper size backing plate - mine wasn't quite thick enough. You can use the jig with a router/table, as well.

My previous effort was on a head cab with a different jig and my router. The table saw setup with the new jig was much easier.

I did use my router to do the round-overs and circle/oval cutouts.
FunkyE9th
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Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by FunkyE9th »

Thanks for sharing the pics. I've only done head cabs, so this helping me a lot. How did you attach the cleats? Glue, screws, dowel? The baffle spacers (not sure what they are called) are they also 1/2 ply?

Thanks!
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Structo
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Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by Structo »

How do you like the box joint jig?

Does it use an index pin for the cuts?
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
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Sonny ReVerb
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Re: New 1x12 cab

Post by Sonny ReVerb »

FunkyE9th wrote:Thanks for sharing the pics. I've only done head cabs, so this helping me a lot. How did you attach the cleats? Glue, screws, dowel? The baffle spacers (not sure what they are called) are they also 1/2 ply?
The cleats I used were 3/4" x 1" pine. The 3/4" side butts up to the side of the cab. I used 1 1/4" drywall screws to attach them, with a little yellow glue to avoid any rattles.

The baffle spacers are just 1" x 1/4" trim strips (probably pine?) from the hardware store. I attached those with 5/8" brads and yellow glue.

Make sure you allow enough space around the baffle for all the covering, grill cloth, piping, etc. I left 1/8" on each side (1/4" total) and it was plenty. I probably could have fit piping in there if I wanted to. I think the rule of thumb is 1/32" to 1/16" per layer of material.

The only thing I would have done differently is to put the grill cloth corner 'pleats' on the top and bottom of the baffle rather than the sides. I notice them in the side gaps, but they would be hidden if they were on the top and bottom. Next one will be better ;)

This is a very good tutorial that helped me. He shows grill cloth on page 2 and how to do a corner on page 3. And here's another where he does some basket weave grill cloth.
Structo wrote:How do you like the box joint jig?

Does it use an index pin for the cuts?
I like the box joint jig. It uses an adjustable index pin (width and distance). You can see a video of it in action here.

I'm glad to help. This is a great group of people.
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