Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Thanks a bunch for the links, gents.
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Press n peel is the best I have ever usedic-racer wrote:Has anyone used the 'laser printer transfer' method to etch their own PC boards for the power supply and such? I was looking into it and wondered if the Copper Clad FR4 I see on the internet is the right stuff. Some descriptions call it 'translucent' and 'yellow green' this would seem to be fitting with some of the Dumble innards pictures I have seen.
The traces on the Dumble Precision power supply board are pretty wide and I also wondered if that would cause a problem with getting a good 'etch resist' in those large areas after the laser ink transfer.
Has anyone tried this, is it a big deal. From what I have seen, it looks not too difficult.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/2099.pdf
I have done surface mount with .015 traces
Great stuff!
http://www.techniks.com/
- glasman
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
I think someone requested layouts for the power supply.
Here are the ones I used for my clone amp. The first set are standard, the second set have a +/- 15V supply that I use for running my digital reverb board that is installed in the amp.
Set up for 1/8" and 1/16" eyelets. All other holes were drilled at .040 (#60).
Have fun
Gary
Here are the ones I used for my clone amp. The first set are standard, the second set have a +/- 15V supply that I use for running my digital reverb board that is installed in the amp.
Set up for 1/8" and 1/16" eyelets. All other holes were drilled at .040 (#60).
Have fun
Gary
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Last edited by glasman on Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
If anyone is interested here are the files made with PAD2PAD that I used for the prototyping.
Gary
Gary
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Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
BTW the drawings I uploaded at scaled 1:1.
Gary
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Gary,
Thanks for both the HRM and PS files.
Jelle
Thanks for both the HRM and PS files.
Jelle
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
HRM? Did i miss something?jelle wrote:Gary,
Thanks for both the HRM and PS files.![]()
Jelle
- glasman
- Posts: 1446
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:37 pm
- Location: Afton, MN (St Croix River Valley)
- Contact:
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
It is in a separate post.benoit wrote:HRM? Did i miss something?jelle wrote:Gary,
Thanks for both the HRM and PS files.![]()
Jelle
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification
www.glaswerks.com
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Thank You Gary. 
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Thanks Gary.
For toner transfer you don't need to buy any special paper.you can have great results with the paper from your used magazines.See link :
Magazine paper transfer
Also the following etchant is better than ferric chloride and best of all is reusable: "http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-us ... /?ALLSTEPS"
For toner transfer you don't need to buy any special paper.you can have great results with the paper from your used magazines.See link :
Magazine paper transfer
Also the following etchant is better than ferric chloride and best of all is reusable: "http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-us ... /?ALLSTEPS"
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Thank you this is great!glasman wrote:I think someone requested layouts for the power supply.
Here are the ones I used for my clone amp. The first set are standard, the second set have a +/- 15V supply that I use for running my digital reverb board that is installed in the amp.
Set up for 1/8" and 1/16" eyelets. All other holes were drilled at .040 (#60).
Have fun
Gary
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Moving along here. Thanks to glassman's post I was able to modify the trace to match what I'm planning on building.
Since I don't have a laser printer I just printed it out on a regular inkjet printer. I believe I have it in the correct orientation to make the transfer. So from here, I guess I can go to Kinkos and perhaps just copy it onto some Gossy Inkjet paper that I already have?
Since I don't have a laser printer I just printed it out on a regular inkjet printer. I believe I have it in the correct orientation to make the transfer. So from here, I guess I can go to Kinkos and perhaps just copy it onto some Gossy Inkjet paper that I already have?
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
Here are the boards I came up with. (posted in the Files section also). (FET board updated to 4-leg component)
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Last edited by ic-racer on Tue Jul 29, 2008 6:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
This is the OD relay board. Only one more to do...
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Re: Copper Clad FR4 for Printed Circuit Board Creation
How to you get electrical continuity between the eyelets and the coper traces?
Do you have to solder them at the under side of the board or just a tight fit is good enough?
Do you have to solder them at the under side of the board or just a tight fit is good enough?