Is it a dumb idea to work on my amp?

[non-reverse]

I picked up a (as far as I can tell) 100% original 1965 Super Reverb yesterday. In spite of some noise/hiss it's running and sounds pretty good. The tubes are all old and there is at least one 6v6 in it (I can't tell what the other power tube is, the label has worn off). The tremolo and reverb are working although the trem is pretty fast, even at the lowest speed (the original footswitch was included).

I'd like to get it back to its former glory which leads me to my question. Should I try and fix it myself or should I take it to a tech? My main worry is breaking something irrevocably. I've built a few kit amps and I've been building pedals for 20 years so I'm confident in my soldering skills. Besides electrocuting myself on a filter cap, is there anything I'm going to ruin? I'd really like to not destroy any of the transformers in particular. I'm not proud, if testing/replacing components is a dumb idea, I'll gladly take it to one of the fine techs in the area. Just hoping to benefit from others' experience.

[martin manning]

Nice specimen! From what I can tell it will need a complete set of electrolytics, and definitely get the right power tubes in it and bias them properly. The preamp tubes may or may not be good, so they should be tested or assess them by listening. Maybe go ahead and re-tube the whole thing, and keep any usable old ones as spares. Clean the pots, and tighten up any loose bushing nuts. I'd guess you are up to that much of a restoration, it will be pretty straightforward. I'm wondering if the power transformer wasn't replaced at some point based on the lumpy solder joint connecting the PT center taps to the chassis.

[Dr Tony Balls]

The tubes are all old and there is at least one 6v6 in it (I can't tell what the other power tube is, the label has worn off). .

6L6? There should be no 6V6 tubes in his amp.

[non-reverse]

I assumed that the electrolytics would have to be replaced but only because they're really old. I've read that you need an ESR tester to really test them so I figured they'd just get replaced.

I've also read that it's a good idea to replace the screen resistors and the grid stoppers as well. Should I just leave them if the values haven't drifted or would it be wise to change them preemptively (assuming I have the nerve to actually work on this thing)?

[non-reverse]

6L6? There should be no 6V6 tubes in his amp.

You read that right, there's one 6v6 and one mystery tube. I found that odd.

Edit: You got me wondering so I went and pulled the tube again....was afraid my old eyes had played tricks on me.

[martin manning]

I've also read that it's a good idea to replace the screen resistors and the grid stoppers as well. Should I just leave them if the values haven't drifted or would it be wise to change them preemptively (assuming I have the nerve to actually work on this thing)?

Check them to see if they have drifted up and replace any that are out of tolerance. You can't check some of them in circuit, but you certainly can measure the ones on the tube sockets.

[Stevem]

Nice mid 1965 SR there!

Since you can solder good there’s no reason you can’t rebuild this amp yourself.

Get all new tubes unless you have another amp to prove them out in.
And yes as posted this amp does not use 6V6 tubes.

So as a novice you want to just do one major thing at a time and replacing all of the filter caps and the preamp bypass caps is first.

Before you ever put any new or old power tubes back in it you want to measure the negative dc voltage on pin 5 of the output tubes and set that bias pot near the PT to the highest negative that you can get .

You should be able to get to -52 volts.

Don’t forget to replace that bias filter cap on the front side of the PT.

Next for the lowest possible level of hiss from the amp all the 100k plate load resistors in the preamp section should get replaced a long with the 68k ones on the input jacks.

These should all be of the metal film type.

These things should keep your hands busy for a while, so please report back or certainly ask for help if you need it.

[Stevem]

I also see the normal issue of one of the 470 ohm screen resistors on one of the output tube sockets.

This is especially common when a output tube goes south.

Plan on replacing both of those a long with the 1.5k resistors there and stand them up more off of the tube sockets .

I like to go full over kill and replace those 470 ohm screen resistors with 5 watters .

Never attempt any soldering to tube socket pins while there’s a tube in the socket and you need a really hot iron to do such right so that the pin heats up fast and you do not drip any solder down into the receiver end ( top side ) of the pin.


Test out all 4 speakers with a 9 volt battery at least to confirm that there not open.

[non-reverse]

Okay, you've all got me feeling more confident about this project. I'll start with the caps/tubes and go from there.

I'm in the middle of building a 5E3 for a friend of mine so I've got to finish that first but I REALLY want to get started on the Super Reverb. Maybe I can finish up his amp while I wait on tubes & caps.

I'm sure I'll have lots more questions! Thanks, all

[nuke]

That's a really, really nice original 1965 Super Reverb. That is a fabulous amp and it is literally untouched. I'm curious what speakers are in it?

Because it is so original and Super Reverbs are among the best amps EVER made, I'd suggest letting an expert work on it, or at least, someone can tutor your work locally to service and go through this amp. There are some bits of knowledge we gain through experience working on all the screwed up ones first.

But if you feel confident working on things like this, and equipped to do it right, dive on in.

Checkout Lyle's channel on YouTube (psionicaudio). He just did a really clean Super Reverb in the last couple of weeks. Yours is quite in the same category. It deserves good work.

[maxkracht]

Sounds like you have enough experience to do the job successfully and there isn't too much permanent damage you can do, assuming you're careful and use a dim bulb tester to turn it on the first time. One thing that comes to mind which I see fairly often: use the correct size screwdriver to tighten screws and be careful not to over tighten or crossthread the self tapping screws going into the chassis. When reinstalling, turn the screw counterclockwise until the thread engages, then turn clockwise.

[non-reverse]

I'm curious what speakers are in it?

Sorry, I meant to post this yesterday...back to school time has got me turned around.

I'd be curious to know what kind of speakers these are too, I don't recognize them.

[nuke]

CTS ceramic magnet speakers, all with 1965 date codes.

Fender usually put their brand stickers on the magnets. The stickers might have been removed, or were never installed, or perhaps, the speakers were swapped at some point.

But given the rest of the amp, I'd tend to think they are original equipment and either never had the Fender brand stickers applied, or perhaps someone peeled them off to ID what kind they were.

The CTS alnico magnet seems to be consensus "best". The CTS ceramics aren't bad. Mine had Oxfords (also ceramic magnets) in it, which according to the internet, are the least desirable. But it was still a great amp.

Some had Jensen C10R, and some were optionally equipped with 10" JBL. Friend of mine had the JBL. I never cared for them, and I couldn't carry the amp because it was so heavy. (LOL)

I loaded mine up with 1998-2000 era Reverend AllTone 1030 speakers and it was amazing sounding, and amazingly heavy. I sold it to Derek Trucks (via his management company) a long time ago. I've seen it on stage with Derek, it had a very unique chip out of the face panel. I think he used it as a hot backup amp.

[SoulFetish]

I'm wondering if the power transformer wasn't replaced at some point based on the lumpy solder joint connecting the PT center taps to the chassis.

The PT is certainly a Schumacher, and the date code is most likely ‘65 (or ‘75). So that checks out. Fenders solder grounds are usually pretty solid leaving the factory though.
My personal opinion is Supers of that era are pretty special. They also have good market value. Are you confident that you are going do the work you would expect from a paid professional? Look almost every vintage fender that comes in the shop needs to have the mains rewired, even ones that have updated with 3- cond AC cords.( I’ve done hundreds of them.) That’s something you really want to know what your doing, because screwing that up can ruin a lot more than your amp
High quality work is worth paying for if you have the money. If you don’t, that’s a different story. Thats how i fell down this rabbit hole. If you do, there are other projects that won’t hurt your feelings every time you think Bout it if you F-it up

[SoulFetish]

Of course it is your amp to do with it as you want