My Trinity OSD Kit Build
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
I'll post more later today when I get back home.
- Matt J.
- Matt J.
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
The 1x12 cabinet, with the installed speaker. You can't see it from the pics, but I installed shielding tape along the top of the cabinet to help keep any other noises out.
- Matt J.
- Matt J.
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pompeiisneaks
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
Wow! Really amazing looking, I'm yet again depressed mine never look that good lol!
~Phil
~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
Thanks Phil!! That really means a lot to me coming from you! I've really enjoyed watching your build on YT, and they have sounded phenomenal!!pompeiisneaks wrote: ↑Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:13 am Wow! Really amazing looking, I'm yet again depressed mine never look that good lol!
~Phil
- Matt J.
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
Took it outside for some final glamour shots, then it is back to the burn-in bench.
- Matt J.
(Edit - No idea why some of these photos are sideways or upside down. Just click on them for the full image pointing the correct way.
)
- Matt J.
(Edit - No idea why some of these photos are sideways or upside down. Just click on them for the full image pointing the correct way.
)
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pompeiisneaks
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Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
ThanksMatt J wrote: ↑Sun Jun 03, 2018 6:02 pmThanks Phil!! That really means a lot to me coming from you! I've really enjoyed watching your build on YT, and they have sounded phenomenal!!pompeiisneaks wrote: ↑Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:13 am Wow! Really amazing looking, I'm yet again depressed mine never look that good lol!
~Phil
- Matt J.
I don't have the steady hands and vision to make them as perfect looking, but they work the same way ~Phil
tUber Nerd!
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
I've posted the amp up in the for sale section now.
I'm asking $650. I'll take care of the shipping costs and if you don't want the speaker I have in the cab, a Celestion G12-65, I can ship it without it and chip $50 off of the price. I wanted to offer it first to the folks here on the Amp Garage before I place it on Reverb (where I will have to charge for shipping). That's my little way of saying thanks for all of the advice and suggestions this amateur builder has received while working on this, and other, amps!
More notes and comments can be found there.
-Matt J>
I'm asking $650. I'll take care of the shipping costs and if you don't want the speaker I have in the cab, a Celestion G12-65, I can ship it without it and chip $50 off of the price. I wanted to offer it first to the folks here on the Amp Garage before I place it on Reverb (where I will have to charge for shipping). That's my little way of saying thanks for all of the advice and suggestions this amateur builder has received while working on this, and other, amps!
More notes and comments can be found there.
-Matt J>
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
I just recently finished-up building one of these myself. I also enjoyed the build. It was my second Trinity kit - I also built a TC15 a few years back. I'm glad I saw you had the same experience with the trim pot... wired backwards... thought I was missing something there. I don't mind, as long as I know how it acts but I do think I will try a 100k pot there as well and might as well wire it up correctly. I also pretty much replaced all of the carbon resistors with metal film. My amp is VERY quiet.
Somewhere in the posts back there I noticed someone mentioning breaking their leads on their JJ caps... one of mine broke trying to squeeze it in and I had to replace it with another cap. I feel like the JJ caps are too big (physical size-wise) for this eyelet board. I may replace them all so some more air is allowed to flow in there.
Overall I am pretty happy with the amp. I run Tung Sol 5881's in mine.
Here is the head cabinet he built for me...
It should arrive later this week.
Somewhere in the posts back there I noticed someone mentioning breaking their leads on their JJ caps... one of mine broke trying to squeeze it in and I had to replace it with another cap. I feel like the JJ caps are too big (physical size-wise) for this eyelet board. I may replace them all so some more air is allowed to flow in there.
Overall I am pretty happy with the amp. I run Tung Sol 5881's in mine.
Here is the head cabinet he built for me...
It should arrive later this week.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
Looks really good. Love G12-65s too. Good luck selling.
Re: My Trinity OSD Kit Build
Your post on ampgarage has just come to my attention! Thank for posting your kit build story and review. It takes a lot of effort to do that and everyone will appreciate it. I know we do.
I wanted to take this opportunity to go over most your points and offer some comments on them.
This is the first gen OSD style kit for us, so the second gen will be improved based on similar feedback. Basically, we followed the same design-build standards we have used for almost 14 years. We did look at the d’Lite which is out of production and hope we will fill in a void there. We used the same transformer set as used in the 22/33.
For the first dozen or so OSD builders, we provided manual, schematic and layout updates (almost daily) on-line until the builds went smoothly. And we kept in close contact with them to make sure the builds went OK.
Note: We found the following tubes sounded great our build. Tun-Sol V1, Mullard RI V2, JJ V3, JJ Powertubes.
Your comments…
- Rework some of the chassis mounting holes. Some were not drilled the proper size and I had to enlarge them, notably the holes to mount the bias probe jacks.
We discovered others as well at the final chassis inspection and thought we had fixed them all. The next batch of chassis will be perfect.
- The output and FX jacks were a little too large too, so I had to use extra washers to install to ensure they stayed securely bolted in place.
If you mean the holes, yes they are a but bigger than usual for some reason. But not unworkable. I think they were sized for Cliff jacks. Anyhow, the next batch of chassis will be perfect.
- The chassis is designed so that the mounting bolts for most things screw directly into the chassis, such as to install the tube sockets, circuit board stand offs, and ground points. Because of this, the kit doesn't come with locking keps nuts for all of the #4 and #6 bolts. I picked up some extra washers and bolts due to this and installed them to be on the safe side. I don't want speaker vibrations to eventually weaken how well the bolts are held in place.
Not having to use nuts by having threaded chassis is seen by many builders as a bonus.
There should have been lock washers for the long #6 to go under the screw head or a lock washer style chassis lug. and on the #4, most go through a part that has a spring like design (e.g. socket mounting tabs) and that does for the locking. Some people use loc-tite or nail polish to make sure they don’t unscrew.
- The layout of the circuit board could be tweaked a little with some more access holes for the wires that need to run under the chassis, much as you see HAD do. I drilled a few extra holes so the flying leads would be a little more stable.
Designs can always be improved. We will look at yours and see where we can improve.
- The use of the 500R dropping resistor instead of a choke between B+1 and B+2 .
We made some cost reducing to the design to get it to a certain price point, knowing some people will make their own mods. We did extensive, comparative listening and recording sessions and found the effect was not significant. It may be that the cleans could sound a little smoother with the choke but we did not notice that when compared to our test Two-Rock Opal.
-Buzz as you move your hand around or above the amp's chassis as it is running.
This is pretty common for an open chassis. An chassis needs to be protected and housed away from bodies. Your body’s proximity to the circuitry changes the shielding / grounding so you hear noises.
-The 250KL trim pot on the back of the amp. The taper just seems off for some reason and, as wired from the layout, it seems to work backwards. (Full clockwise shuts off the OD, full counter-clockwise provides max gain). I've ordered a 100Kl replacement so it is closer to the actual value of the internal trim pot from #124.
I believe we did issue a change notice regarding wiring this pot but you didn’t get it. Sorry. As for the 250KL value, we have seen 350KL and 100KL designs. We thought 250KL did a good job. I would think 100K would be a little too sensitive for my taste but YMMV.
-The 1uf tantalum presence cap seems to have very little effect, so I'm going to try a 2.2uf replacement.
The presence is subtle, but make sure the pot is wired correctly. How did you find the 2uF then?
NOTE: Your Mid control is not as per the notification you should have received. The wire from the board goes to the wiper and there is NO jumper.
- I noticed that the transformers (when you install them per the corresponding holes in the chassis) are not installed with the bell ends perpendicular to each other, as I see in most amps. I've read this can cause noise issues, but I'm not certain. With my caliper I measured about a 2.6 inch/66 mm distance between the ends of the two bells.
We did extensive testing to locate the best spot and orientation for the two transformers. You are correct that they are normally 90 degrees offset but we found that not necessary in this layout. You do not always have to “absolutely rotate one or the other.”
- I'm considering pulling out the current OT that was supplied and replacing it with a 50w 2x6L6GC OT from Classictone and reworking things from there. Having tried it with the 6V6s, they seemed just a little too mushy to me when the master was up. It was interesting that they included this option with the kit, but I prefer a cleaner 6L6 sound on these types of amps.
The Heyboer OT is sized to handle the output of both tube sets but if you want to up-size it, that is an option but always at a cost. Maybe next round we will up-size it 25% but keep in mind, it’s a 22W 6V6 / 33W 6L6 design. We had no issues with loud/clean/clarity in our studio.
- JJ filter caps? This is the first time I've used them with any amp (they came with the kit) so I'm considering changing them out for some F&Ts if it would be a notable upgrade.
JJ are top quality caps. Just as good a F&T so we have no issues using them and never have had. The are substantial in size for sure, but I’ve not broken one yet (though there’s always a first time.) The filtering is intended to be quite high by the way.
In summary, we think your build is clean and obviously it works better in a shielded cabinet and looks good too. Our objective to kit a Dumble style amp was in response to many requests from past and future customers and we decided to model it after the #124 with which we had a lot of experience. As is always the case, people’s taste varies and so tweaking is inevitable. If you want to suggest mods you liked, please drop us a line with the details and we will consider them. For example, “slowly replacing some of the circuitry to high plates specs, closer to what is on #102”.
Cheers,
stephen@trinityamps.com
I wanted to take this opportunity to go over most your points and offer some comments on them.
This is the first gen OSD style kit for us, so the second gen will be improved based on similar feedback. Basically, we followed the same design-build standards we have used for almost 14 years. We did look at the d’Lite which is out of production and hope we will fill in a void there. We used the same transformer set as used in the 22/33.
For the first dozen or so OSD builders, we provided manual, schematic and layout updates (almost daily) on-line until the builds went smoothly. And we kept in close contact with them to make sure the builds went OK.
Note: We found the following tubes sounded great our build. Tun-Sol V1, Mullard RI V2, JJ V3, JJ Powertubes.
Your comments…
- Rework some of the chassis mounting holes. Some were not drilled the proper size and I had to enlarge them, notably the holes to mount the bias probe jacks.
We discovered others as well at the final chassis inspection and thought we had fixed them all. The next batch of chassis will be perfect.
- The output and FX jacks were a little too large too, so I had to use extra washers to install to ensure they stayed securely bolted in place.
If you mean the holes, yes they are a but bigger than usual for some reason. But not unworkable. I think they were sized for Cliff jacks. Anyhow, the next batch of chassis will be perfect.
- The chassis is designed so that the mounting bolts for most things screw directly into the chassis, such as to install the tube sockets, circuit board stand offs, and ground points. Because of this, the kit doesn't come with locking keps nuts for all of the #4 and #6 bolts. I picked up some extra washers and bolts due to this and installed them to be on the safe side. I don't want speaker vibrations to eventually weaken how well the bolts are held in place.
Not having to use nuts by having threaded chassis is seen by many builders as a bonus.
There should have been lock washers for the long #6 to go under the screw head or a lock washer style chassis lug. and on the #4, most go through a part that has a spring like design (e.g. socket mounting tabs) and that does for the locking. Some people use loc-tite or nail polish to make sure they don’t unscrew.
- The layout of the circuit board could be tweaked a little with some more access holes for the wires that need to run under the chassis, much as you see HAD do. I drilled a few extra holes so the flying leads would be a little more stable.
Designs can always be improved. We will look at yours and see where we can improve.
- The use of the 500R dropping resistor instead of a choke between B+1 and B+2 .
We made some cost reducing to the design to get it to a certain price point, knowing some people will make their own mods. We did extensive, comparative listening and recording sessions and found the effect was not significant. It may be that the cleans could sound a little smoother with the choke but we did not notice that when compared to our test Two-Rock Opal.
-Buzz as you move your hand around or above the amp's chassis as it is running.
This is pretty common for an open chassis. An chassis needs to be protected and housed away from bodies. Your body’s proximity to the circuitry changes the shielding / grounding so you hear noises.
-The 250KL trim pot on the back of the amp. The taper just seems off for some reason and, as wired from the layout, it seems to work backwards. (Full clockwise shuts off the OD, full counter-clockwise provides max gain). I've ordered a 100Kl replacement so it is closer to the actual value of the internal trim pot from #124.
I believe we did issue a change notice regarding wiring this pot but you didn’t get it. Sorry. As for the 250KL value, we have seen 350KL and 100KL designs. We thought 250KL did a good job. I would think 100K would be a little too sensitive for my taste but YMMV.
-The 1uf tantalum presence cap seems to have very little effect, so I'm going to try a 2.2uf replacement.
The presence is subtle, but make sure the pot is wired correctly. How did you find the 2uF then?
NOTE: Your Mid control is not as per the notification you should have received. The wire from the board goes to the wiper and there is NO jumper.
- I noticed that the transformers (when you install them per the corresponding holes in the chassis) are not installed with the bell ends perpendicular to each other, as I see in most amps. I've read this can cause noise issues, but I'm not certain. With my caliper I measured about a 2.6 inch/66 mm distance between the ends of the two bells.
We did extensive testing to locate the best spot and orientation for the two transformers. You are correct that they are normally 90 degrees offset but we found that not necessary in this layout. You do not always have to “absolutely rotate one or the other.”
- I'm considering pulling out the current OT that was supplied and replacing it with a 50w 2x6L6GC OT from Classictone and reworking things from there. Having tried it with the 6V6s, they seemed just a little too mushy to me when the master was up. It was interesting that they included this option with the kit, but I prefer a cleaner 6L6 sound on these types of amps.
The Heyboer OT is sized to handle the output of both tube sets but if you want to up-size it, that is an option but always at a cost. Maybe next round we will up-size it 25% but keep in mind, it’s a 22W 6V6 / 33W 6L6 design. We had no issues with loud/clean/clarity in our studio.
- JJ filter caps? This is the first time I've used them with any amp (they came with the kit) so I'm considering changing them out for some F&Ts if it would be a notable upgrade.
JJ are top quality caps. Just as good a F&T so we have no issues using them and never have had. The are substantial in size for sure, but I’ve not broken one yet (though there’s always a first time.) The filtering is intended to be quite high by the way.
In summary, we think your build is clean and obviously it works better in a shielded cabinet and looks good too. Our objective to kit a Dumble style amp was in response to many requests from past and future customers and we decided to model it after the #124 with which we had a lot of experience. As is always the case, people’s taste varies and so tweaking is inevitable. If you want to suggest mods you liked, please drop us a line with the details and we will consider them. For example, “slowly replacing some of the circuitry to high plates specs, closer to what is on #102”.
Cheers,
stephen@trinityamps.com