norburybrook wrote: ↑Mon Apr 23, 2018 9:23 pmQuestion: as I'm doing a light colour(sand) suede should I still paint the inside of the combo black? Tomorrow morning I'll paint it so I can do the covering later in the day so just wondering if I should go ahead and paint it black inside.
I'll just add a bit of info here as that rear shot has jogged my memory. The Nat chassis are either slightly deeper than the original Dumble ones or the dimensions of the combo cabinet that are in the files section are too shallow. If you look at any of the 2nd gen combo cabinets there's a good deal of space between the end of the chassis and the actual back of the cab, probably 1 1/2 inches. Those Carling switches are quite deep and this extra depth protects everything at the rear of the chassis.
I've done mine by eye this time and I think it looks pretty much like the dumble in the picture and I've use 290mm or 11 1/2 inches for the overall depth.
norburybrook wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:46 am
Thanks.
I'll just add a bit of info here as that rear shot has jogged my memory. The Nat chassis are either slightly deeper than the original Dumble ones or the dimensions of the combo cabinet that are in the files section are too shallow. If you look at any of the 2nd gen combo cabinets there's a good deal of space between the end of the chassis and the actual back of the cab, probably 1 1/2 inches. Those Carling switches are quite deep and this extra depth protects everything at the rear of the chassis.
I've done mine by eye this time and I think it looks pretty much like the dumble in the picture and I've use 290mm or 11 1/2 inches for the overall depth.
M
And the Thai chassis are about an inch deeper than real Dumble ones.
norburybrook wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:46 am
Thanks.
I'll just add a bit of info here as that rear shot has jogged my memory. The Nat chassis are either slightly deeper than the original Dumble ones or the dimensions of the combo cabinet that are in the files section are too shallow. If you look at any of the 2nd gen combo cabinets there's a good deal of space between the end of the chassis and the actual back of the cab, probably 1 1/2 inches. Those Carling switches are quite deep and this extra depth protects everything at the rear of the chassis.
I've done mine by eye this time and I think it looks pretty much like the dumble in the picture and I've use 290mm or 11 1/2 inches for the overall depth.
M
And the Thai chassis are about an inch deeper than real Dumble ones.
Ah as I suspected. The original dumble will be quite tight for space then with the relay boards if they're an inch narrower. There's not a great deal of room with the Thai ones. I suppose half and inch off the front and back leaves enough space. I needs to measure Taylors chassis and see if they're the same. Perhaps if they are then someone could make a not for future builders that the newer chassis need a deeper cabinet to accomodate them.
Ah as I suspected. The original dumble will be quite tight for space then with the relay boards if they're an inch narrower. There's not a great deal of room with the Thai ones. I suppose half and inch off the front and back leaves enough space. I needs to measure Taylors chassis and see if they're the same. Perhaps if they are then someone could make a not for future builders that the newer chassis need a deeper cabinet to accomodate them.
I believe that Taylor's chassis, as well as the ones from Ceriatone and CE Pedals, are all the "proper" 8" deep. It's only the ones sourced from various Thai vendors that are anomalous.
Right then. My aching back and arms tell me I've been sawing and drilling and screwing for the past few days.
Nearly done. Need some more long screws for the chassis and a handle and that's it.
I've used Alcantara which is artificial Suede used in car uphostry and the glue has soaked through leaving dark patches. I'm hoping that it will dry out over time. If it doesn't then I'll have to re cover which would be an almighty PIA.
I made the cab slightly bigger than standard and then realised that the 2m of aluminium bar was about 2 inches too short for me to do it the Dumble way. So I've piped the bottom half and put the bar on the top. I also didn't use 'Dumble' corners either. I think I just ordered the wrong ones. Small details but I thought I'd point them out.
Anyway I haven't had time to try it yet, I've put the Eminence speaker in to try so will report back tomorrow if I get time.
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M
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Very nice job Marcus! I am also working on my head cabinet and there are always surprises along the way hopefully we will get to hear your sound samples soon !
It wasn’t a glue mishap, it was part of your proprietary “relic-ing” process! Add some cigarette burns, abuse the grill cloth with an ice pick, replace one knob with a random, chipped one from a fuzz box, put some naval jelly on the corners and handle screw covers to take the shine off them. See if the guy who bought the other one will buy this one at a 30% price premium.
drew wrote: ↑Mon Apr 30, 2018 4:29 pm
It wasn’t a glue mishap, it was part of your proprietary “relic-ing” process! Add some cigarette burns, abuse the grill cloth with an ice pick, replace one knob with a random, chipped one from a fuzz box, put some naval jelly on the corners and handle screw covers to take the shine off them. See if the guy who bought the other one will buy this one at a 30% price premium.
“relic-ing” that's the word I was looking for.....Sold...Soldering Iron does great cigarette burns
I should just leave it with my Roadie without a case for a few days...he's getting old now( and has Parkinsons ) and not as careful as when he young and fit. I can't imagine doing his job at his age...70! bless him.
Roger Wilco.......
hopefully we will get to hear your sound samples soon !
) and not as careful as when he young and fit. I can't imagine doing his job at his age...70! bless him.
