Custom printed faceplates and plastic amp logos

[Lindz]

My printer is not the limitation (it can print continuously up to 150 feet) The size limitation is the plastic and aluminum - they come cut from the supplier to 23" or 24" depending on the type.

I can get 4 x 8 foot sheets but I have to buy a case of 10 to get it and that is more material than I want to get at this point as I do not use it for the snowboards or skis, just for these faceplates. If there is enough interest to justify getting that much material later I will and that will allow larger cuts.

I do have a 24/1000" white plastic in matte finish or gloss finish that I can print any size - it is the material I use for ski or snowboard topsheets. It is less stiff than the plastic I have been using or aluminum but would work if you spray tacked it to the front panel otherwise it might be a little wavy compared to the other types because it is thinner. In fact that is what I tried first and sent me on the path to find the other other more rigid materials that I can sublimate.

As for trimming, for now I will be cutting using a fence on my bandsaw so essentially straight lines is all that will work - I would cut other shapes within reason to increase your yield out of a piece but will not want to vouch for precision cuts using the saw

When I get the CNC going I can cut more elaborate shapes but the yield will be slightly less because the bit will likely be 1/8" (still playing with different types) so you lose some material that way

[Lindz]

I uploaded a few somewhat better pictures for those that asked.

The faceplates in these pictures were all printed on the white plastic material. I also spent a few minutes this morning mocking up a couple graphics to show some of the color capability.

You can see the satin finish of the material on the bottom faceplate in the top image (white knobs reflect slightly).

The one plastic logo photo shows a bit more detail than the first ones I posted as well.

If anyone is interested in printing a few let me know

[M Fowler]

Wow those are nice but my problem is I can't use software to design a faceplate to save my ass.

Mark

[Structo]

I was wondering about the 3D logo.

Does your printer have the capability to include mounting pegs, like a Marshall logo has?

If not, how do you mount the logo on a cab?

[Reeltarded]

Nice looking stuff! I like the logo too. Wondered about that..

[Lindz]

Structo - It prints the pegs but they are sometimes a little weak unless I make them reasonably big diameter (>= 1/8"). It kind of depends on the logo what I can use.

What I have been doing on smaller logos is making them with holes recessed in the back side and inserting steel pegs in the holes.

[surfsup]

Lindz, those do look great for therice you are offering. I'm in...

Could you post a summary of what you need?

I.e., minimum of four? plates, max width, height, 300dpi? graphic in what format...etc?

[Lindz]

Surfsup - what I was thinking is the minimum would be 1 sheet of material and so the faceplate count would depend on the size of your faceplates.

The aluminum is 24" x 12", the plastic is 23" x 11.5" so for the faceplates in my pictures that are 23 x 2.5" I can get 4 on one sheet. Keep in mind that my saw blade is a touch over 1/16" so you cannot place them exactly top to bottom right against each other, you have to leave room for the blade to cut them or they will end up slightly too small vertically when I cut them out

Set up something like an Illustrator, Photoshop or Coreldraw file (or whatever image/graphics software you have) with a page size the size of the material listed above.

below is what my Coreldraw layout looks like with 4 up on the page. Please do not send 4 separate files if you want 4 faceplates, put them all in one file and lay them out on one page sort of like my file. Note that I spaced them apart on the material a bit because of the blade width I mentioned above. Mine are wider apart than they have to be for the blade but I left extra room for a larger CNC bit as I am trying to get so I can shape/drill them on the CNC

the easiest format for printing is to export a high resolution JPEG at 300 dpi - that way there is less risk of software incompatibility, font problems or postscript weirdness if you use halftone fades vs a native Illustrator or other software file. Use rich black not 100% black if you are in CMYK color space. These files should be small enough to email. To email me the files they need to be small enough for Gmail 25 megabyte file size limit - If you want to send a native Photoshop file or TIFF or something and it is larger, you need to send it by Usendit or Dropbox or something like that

[surfsup]

Great info thanks

[BarryW]

this is superb - best of luck with this, I'll definitely give you a shout when I order my next batch of logos and plates!

[dorrisant]

Very nice!!

Tony

[Tone Lover]

I love that dragon you have that is killer .
Bill

[h2mster]

if you like go to my page @ oak-amps.com and check the logo. I need this in 2 dimensions 9x9 inch and 5x5 inch.

how much was this if i provided a format you can use.

[starlite2991]

Hello Gent's

Do you own these amplifiers? What is their operating voltage's?

Gday

Hello all

Moderators: I was not sure if I should post here or in For Sale as I will be offering some of these to TAG members if they want them but thought that it might be appropriate to post here given there is a fair bit of info as well - feel free move this if you feel it should be moved

Anyway I spent some time the past couple of weeks putzing with some of the toys I have at my shop, making some faceplates and plastic logos and after a bit of playing around I have managed to get some pretty cool results I wanted to share with the TAG folks

At my shop I have a large format print system for printing ski and snowboard graphics as well as a small 3d printer for prototyping various things out of plastic that I make and design for the day job. I thought I should be able to adapt both to print faceplates, grill cloth, make some plastic amp logos etc. so I started tweaking a few things and making some prototypes a while back and have had some good results

After messing with both for a few weeks I have come up with some decent looking parts that might be of interest to people here that build custom and commercial amps as well as you hobby guys like myself that just want something that looks really pro without dropping wads of cash.

The color faceplates are printed on a 70/1000" thick plastic coated with a white polyesster satin film that prints beautifully. I can print in full color at dimensions up to 23" x 11.5" so theoretically I can print in full color, photographs, subtle textures etc and because it is 11.5" I can print 4 or 5 faceplates on one sheet depending on the height of the chassis.

I also found a 25/1000" brushed gold aluminum with a glossy looking clearcoat on it that prints well and does a really nice looking Marshall metal face type faceplate. Here too I can print in full color though because I am printing on gold and there is no white ink out of the printer one has to consider that in the artwork

the first photos are a few front and back faceplates printed on the white material - I just slapped together a few graphics for the pictures so excuse my mediocre graphic designs on these. My point was to print some samples to play around with the color printing capability on these substrates - dot gain, color shift etc. They are not drilled at this point and just have index marks where the holes would go. I am still messing with my CNC to see if I can adapt it to cut the faceplate size and drill the holes.

The gold photo is the aluminum material on a 20 watt plexiish build with vvr & channel switching and a few other tweaks - looks very Marshally. Just a tiny touch of color on the Linz logo (my nickname) but I could have printed full color on the whole thing just as easily as the text or logo.

As for the plastic amp logos from the 3d printer, I have them printing nicely too - pretty close in quality to a marshall cabinet type logo - slightly rougher finish but still I think they look great. The Marshall and Gunslinger logos in this picture are both 3d prints - The Marshall does not have all the same exact subtle beveling on the letters as an original and not quite the same font but 90% of people would not notice the difference unless they were side by side. Right now I just have white filament to print white plastic but will have some different colors soon

Anyway PM me if you are interested in me making up a few faceplates or plastic logos. I'm guessing a typical faceplate will come in at about $15 assuming you print 4 at a time on one sheet and sent me ready to print art ($60 per 24" x 12" sheet (the phenolic is 23" x 11.5") = $15 per faceplate assuming a yield of 4. Same $60 price for 5 if you can squeeze 5 onto the material) Until I have my CNC working they will not be drilled but will have index marks for your holes and can be cut to individual size if you like.

If there is some demand I was thinking I might set up a small website to make purchases easier but for now just PM me and I can send info on how you would have to set up the art or discuss me perhaps doing it for you if you cannot.

The logos I would have to quote on as there are so many variables but I think I can do a custom logo that is similar in general to a 9" x 2.5" Marshall logo for about $30. Not all things can be printed easily and there are some idiosyncrasies with 3d printing that come into play so not every single thing can be printed exactly how you want it. If you have a design you want to try printing send it to me and I can have a look at it.

Lindsay

[M Fowler]

Mods, now I know this poster starlite2991 has to go.