Hello Everyone,
Just diving in to say "Hi". I've played guitar for awhile now and got into guitar repair and refinishing awhile back and I'm kind of new to the amp thing. Looks like everyone is super knowledgeable here and seems like a great hangout.
Hello
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Hello
Thanks!
Well, first I need to build a cab for my '64 Princeton Reverb. The speaker is in great shape, and I'd like to keep it that way.
Thinking a maple or maybe ash cab model after the vox 2x12's. but I'm having a slight issue finding dimensions.
After that, a rippin' 5 watt would be great. But the cab is first on the never ending list...
Well, first I need to build a cab for my '64 Princeton Reverb. The speaker is in great shape, and I'd like to keep it that way.
Thinking a maple or maybe ash cab model after the vox 2x12's. but I'm having a slight issue finding dimensions. After that, a rippin' 5 watt would be great. But the cab is first on the never ending list...
-Kevin
Re: Hello
you mean an external cab? or are you planning to put the chassis into another combo cab?
I built a new combo cab for my PR that is 1.5" deeper than the original cabinet with an 8" tall solid bottom/back panel and a 12" speaker cutout in the baffle. Solid 3/4" pine, butt joints, screws & glue, hide glue for the tolex, and a 1/2" solid pine baffle. It sounds killer. Major difference. I think pine cabinets are killer, resonant, just fantastic. Maybe not super road-worthy tho.
see ya-
I built a new combo cab for my PR that is 1.5" deeper than the original cabinet with an 8" tall solid bottom/back panel and a 12" speaker cutout in the baffle. Solid 3/4" pine, butt joints, screws & glue, hide glue for the tolex, and a 1/2" solid pine baffle. It sounds killer. Major difference. I think pine cabinets are killer, resonant, just fantastic. Maybe not super road-worthy tho.
see ya-
Re: Hello
An external cab. Come to think of it, pine I'm sure would work out fine. I'll end up putting it in a flight case anyways, so I'm not to awful worried about it being a total tank. It's going to be a 2x12". I few things I'm curious about is wood size. What size (1/2" or 3/4" or whatever) should the cab be and should the baffle be a different thickness?
-Kevin
Re: Hello
well, that's a good question. as a rule, physics applies:
- the thinner the material, the more flexible it is. the more flexible it is, the more resonant (or easy to vibrate) it will be
- the thinner the material, the lower the resonant frequency, given the same tension. so a thinner material will have a lower resonant frequency.
- the more mass, the lower the resonant frequency, all other things being equal.
so, a thinner baffle material with the same mass of speaker stuck in the middle will be lower resonant frequency, more resonant, but may also suffer from some compression due to movement of the baffle counter to the cone (the cone pushes on air that doesn't want to move, and the baffle must hold the frame still... if the baffle flexes in the opposite direction to the push of air from the cone, then that diminishes the amount of air pressure that can be created by the cone). same goes for the rest of the cabinet. The thinner, the more resonant, woody, warmer, etc. kind of tone.
with a cabinet big enough for a 2x12, you would likely need some kind of bracing in the middle of the baffle if it was as thin as 1/2". you can go as thin as 1/4" if using plywood and maybe 3/8" if using solid wood for the baffle without cracking it if you are careful in transport. mostly the thinner baffle will give more aparent bottom end and a more compressed overall tone.
hey this is a lot more about art than science. give it a shot. i made the baffle removable with T-nuts and screws so I could try different things easily. Might be worthwhile.
- the thinner the material, the more flexible it is. the more flexible it is, the more resonant (or easy to vibrate) it will be
- the thinner the material, the lower the resonant frequency, given the same tension. so a thinner material will have a lower resonant frequency.
- the more mass, the lower the resonant frequency, all other things being equal.
so, a thinner baffle material with the same mass of speaker stuck in the middle will be lower resonant frequency, more resonant, but may also suffer from some compression due to movement of the baffle counter to the cone (the cone pushes on air that doesn't want to move, and the baffle must hold the frame still... if the baffle flexes in the opposite direction to the push of air from the cone, then that diminishes the amount of air pressure that can be created by the cone). same goes for the rest of the cabinet. The thinner, the more resonant, woody, warmer, etc. kind of tone.
with a cabinet big enough for a 2x12, you would likely need some kind of bracing in the middle of the baffle if it was as thin as 1/2". you can go as thin as 1/4" if using plywood and maybe 3/8" if using solid wood for the baffle without cracking it if you are careful in transport. mostly the thinner baffle will give more aparent bottom end and a more compressed overall tone.
hey this is a lot more about art than science. give it a shot. i made the baffle removable with T-nuts and screws so I could try different things easily. Might be worthwhile.
Re: Hello
I'm thinking a may go with 3/4" pine ply (or something of the sort) for the cab and removable baffle. 1/2" 3/8" and so forth. I'll probably make the back panel removable in sections, so I can only remove a little bit of the back at a time to further open my options of adjustments. Now to design a decent way to do all this...
Thank for the help Josh.
Thank for the help Josh.
-Kevin