Those West Lab transformer would be a great choice for this amp. Sometimes you have to pay a little more for quality.
I built this amp because I came across the Ceriatone DC30 transformers from a TAG member. I bought those thinking they could be used for many different amps.
Then another TAG member sold me his Ceriatone DC30 kit missing the transformers so it all worked out darn well for a guy not intending on building this amp.
kbperry810 wrote:I've ran into that as well... ordered 100k's, got a bag of 100's - always a good idea to double check!
Glad I came across this thread; I had no intention of building a DC30 but then came across a chassis for sale on TGP a short while back and went for it. I have a few things to contemplate now before I actually get started.
Just waiting on a few part orders to arrive, and haven't settled on a tranny set yet... but I'm sure I'll go with West Labs; Dave's a great guy and just about an hours drive down the highway from me.
You might also look at Transformer Design and Supply (TDS).... they made the original transformers for Matchless... and are well regarded.. I have a set I'm using in my second Dizzy build..
I finished up another mod to this amp. I removed one of the speaker output jacks and installed a switch in its place. The switch is identical to the speaker reverse switch. I wired the tone control from channel 2 to the center poles of this switch and one side of the switch bridges the 500pF coupling cap of channel 1. The other side of the switch puts the tone control back on channel 2. This way I can switch the multi-cap tone control between the two channels. In one position the amp behaves as original and you can parallel inputs into both channels. In the other position, channel 1 uses the tone control, in addition to the treble, bass, cut, volume with bright switch, and master volume. Just to increase the flexibility for tone shaping. The wiring was a little tedious because I used shielded cables with the shield connected to ground at one side. I'll post up a layout and schematic in the future.
Diablo1 wrote:Playonit said:
"I just added some to an order I just placed.. let you know how it goes next week... I just checked my previous invoice.. I ordered right they sent them wrong. I let them know so they can check there picking bin for accuracy... that said.. shame on me for not checking the resistance before installing them... did the same thing last week on another project... what a DUFUS ..."
In the meanwhile, just disconnect the two 2.2 ohm resistors from the MV pot and try it out. It will work fine.
Got the 2.2m resistors in and the mod done... went back to 100pf channel 1 bright cap... and got to playing... things have quieted down on the master, harshness gone and overall a nice smooth sound... channel 1 hasn't changed much ... has some nice chime but not as bright.. very enjoyable...
Got the 2.2m resistors in and the mod done... went back to 100pf channel 1 bright cap... and got to playing... things have quieted down on the master, harshness gone and overall a nice smooth sound... channel 1 hasn't changed much ... has some nice chime but not as bright.. very enjoyable...[/quote]
Glad you finally got the MV working. The main benefit of the Larmar MV is that the amp sounds the same at any MV level. Must be because most of the distortion is from the preamp or PI.
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