So I started to think that I would just let it be, and just be careful when I moved the power cord.... then I thought that me and "careful" aren't always good friends so I started to think about alternative solutions.
After scrapping every other idea for a power cord socket, it suddenly hit me: It didn't have to sit in the metal case, I could build it into the cabinet.
One weird thing just happened, while I was playing. I wanted to know how dirty I could get it, so I cranked everything up to 10, the distortion was there, then suddenly on a hard power chord there was a pop, and then all distortion went away, suddenly it was much louder, distortion free, just creamy compression. What happened? Was this something loose inside that caused the distortion? Or was it that it got overloaded and suddenly woke up from sleep and decided to go to work? I turned it off to let it cool down, I'll check later if the distortion is back when it is cold.
Congrats on getting the amp up and running.
However, you get negative kudos for that ac connector install,
bad idea due to the location, a hard wired ac cable would have been just right for that amp.
docz wrote:One weird thing just happened, while I was playing. I wanted to know how dirty I could get it, so I cranked everything up to 10, the distortion was there, then suddenly on a hard power chord there was a pop, and then all distortion went away, suddenly it was much louder, distortion free, just creamy compression. What happened? Was this something loose inside that caused the distortion? Or was it that it got overloaded and suddenly woke up from sleep and decided to go to work? I turned it off to let it cool down, I'll check later if the distortion is back when it is cold.
DocZ
Hmmm, not sure what happened.
Try different tubes if you have them.
Did you ever figure out where this amp is biased at?
The socket is good, the location is not. Side location for the socket is not a standard location but as long as you are happy with it and it works then not a problem. If you had performed that mod to an old Fender tweed then it would be quite a bad idea. At first glance at your photo I thought the socket was mounted on the top of the cab until I took a second look and figured out that the location was on the side of the cab which was better than where I thought you placed it at first.
Have you checked your coupling caps for dc leakage?
that could be a bad solder join, or a loose lead on a component , or a dirty
tube socket or tube pin, the next time your in it try some chop sticking
You get in there with a non conductive stick and wiggle things.
Checked the coupling caps, no leakage, I did check the bias, but I don't remember what it was, I will check it again later. If the distortion keeps away I will not do more until something else is wrong because it is a bit of a pain to disassemble. I will chopstick and check the solder joints and component leads again the next time I have the thing open.
About the socket, I really wanted a socket, I didn't have a proper strain relief on the cord inside the chassis, my initial plan was to install that socket on the back of the chassis, but there was no possible way of fitting that socket anywhere on the chassis. So that left either the top or one of the sides, I like it. But for a future reference, why is it a bad idea to do that on an old Fender? And what would be the standard location for such a socket?
On the IEC socket, it just isn't done that way. I'm not sure why, but I can guess. Never on top...someone spills a beer and its over. I think there may be some electrical code requirement that the IEC is mounted in the chassis. I've never seen one done any other way on any sort of equipment.
You don't do that to an old Fender or other amp of value because it will seriously devalue the amp...I'd guess by 30-50%. It's just fugly. The Teisco is considered a bargain bin amp...I guess it's OK to booger up one of those.
On the pop and the change in tone. I've been through this sort of thing on a new build, but the same would hold for a cap job, which you did. My theory is that new caps don't always give full function right away, even though they should. They need a good hammering to get fully exercised. Once you get them going, they are good. If it happens again, what I said isn't right and look for a bad solder or loose part.
If you pull the chassis, check voltages to see if anything has changed.
Ok, what you are saying makes sense. It was just the idea I got at 3 am, seemed like a good idea at the time. Oh well - at least this thing is not going on the road, it will be a practice / studio amp.
I hope that pop is like you say just the parts breaking in If it stays the way it was after I'll be a real happy camper, the difference was - breathtaking!
the next time your in it make sure you take a good look around for anything
basic like a short, sometimes its a component lead touching resistor case,
little ball of solder rolling around, etc....
I'm the guy that referred you to try here from MLP.
You were starting to get in over my head and kudo's
to the AG community for all the patience and help they have given you!
Good work Doc...and yes, now pave forward to a scratch
build.