LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

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ViperDoc
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LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by ViperDoc »

I have a few questions about some lead dress specifics. I'm wiring up my latest amp with tefzel-coated braided wire and, so far, things seem to be running pretty smoothly! I had a breakthrough during my first attempt at wiring my socket heaters, mainly because I was displeased with how sloppy they were turning out. I can imagine many of you already do this, but I decided to remove it all and rewired the heater harness entirely against a cardboard template, leaving extra lead length for trimming and soldering. It came out better than I expected. I decided to guide the preamp socket wires over the middle of the socket like the Valve Wizard recommends. I held it in with painters tape and soldered it in one pin at a time. Voila!

Image

After that, I started wiring my DC relay supply wires and wondered about the best way to secure the DC wires against the chassis wall. I know some have used silicone caulk, hot glue, RTV silicone, and perhaps even epoxy to secure wires. If I wanted to stick this white/purple twisted pair in a similar path as in this picture, how would you do it?

Image

My last question is about the best way to secure the PT unused primary and secondary wires. The picture above shows the unused 220V and 240V primary on the left and the unused secondary HT CT, the bias supply wires (blue) and the HT secondaries on the right. Some of these wires can be near each other, others can't and I have no idea which. What's the best way to organize these? The unconnected wires simply have shrink wrap tubing in place for now.

THANK YOU!
Just plug it in, man.
TUBEDUDE
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by TUBEDUDE »

I cut them as short as possible and double heat shrink them.
Tube junkie that aspires to become a tri-state bidirectional buss driver.
pdf64
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by pdf64 »

I've been using a blob of 'Blutak' to hold wires in place during soldering.
And I rotate the noval sockets so that the wires feed through the gap
Image
https://imgur.com/gallery/5Rk6cco
Last edited by pdf64 on Wed May 06, 2020 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Phil_S
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by Phil_S »

If you don't want to cut the extra length off the unused PT leads, after heat shrinking, you can zip tie them to something to anchor them and prevent them from moving around, or you can use something sticky to do the same. Ask yourself, are you ever going to use those leads? At least trim them somewhat, leaving some length to attach extensions if you just can't get past trimming them all the way.
sluckey
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by sluckey »

I used aluminum duct tape on a few projects...

Image
ChopSauce
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by ChopSauce »

As is, the unused cable appeared to me like crying for they being zip-tied together, the red one over the others ... :lol:
(just kidding)
sluckey wrote: Wed May 06, 2020 1:02 pm I used aluminum duct tape on a few projects...

Image
I also did, & I also see that you have a few of those lovely isolated turrets ... 8)
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ViperDoc
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by ViperDoc »

pdf64 wrote: Wed May 06, 2020 11:34 am I've been using a blob of 'Blutak' to hold wires in place during soldering.
And I rotate the noval sockets so that the wires feed through the gap

https://imgur.com/gallery/5Rk6cco
That looks ideal. I might have to do that on the next build!
Just plug it in, man.
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ViperDoc
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by ViperDoc »

sluckey wrote: Wed May 06, 2020 1:02 pm I used aluminum duct tape on a few projects...

Image
That looks good! I might just do that.
Just plug it in, man.
TUBEDUDE
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by TUBEDUDE »

I align the tube pins so the triode sections face the circuitry involved, to keep leads as short as possible. I have the heater wires coming up from the socket to the top (bottom) of the chassis opening, running along the ground buss. (This photo is before the buss installation for clarity).
20200506_170139.jpg
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ViperDoc
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by ViperDoc »

TUBEDUDE wrote: Wed May 06, 2020 9:06 pm I align the tube pins so the triode sections face the circuitry involved, to keep leads as short as possible. I have the heater wires coming up from the socket to the top (bottom) of the chassis opening, running along the ground buss. (This photo is before the buss installation for clarity).
20200506_170139.jpg
That point-to-point business is as cool as it is over my head. I do like how your relay PCB has the terminals all on one side, that's slick azz. I initially just kept my 9-pin sockets in their current orientation because that's how they are oriented on my layout, but that probably makes no difference. I guess I could have rotated them and swapped the pin assignments no problem. But I used 18 guage wire to heat them, and it was an absolute bitch to get two wires through one pin, so those are staying where they are!
Just plug it in, man.
TUBEDUDE
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Re: LEAD DRESS SPECIFICS

Post by TUBEDUDE »

I got the relay boards from Amplified Nation.
Tube junkie that aspires to become a tri-state bidirectional buss driver.
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