Dumble Chassis

[stretch2011]

Thinking about making some dumble chassis, anybody got the plans?

[M Fowler]

Sorry but there are a lot of different dumble chassis to choose from.

[stretch2011]

dont be sorry, whats one of the more popular ones? the overdrive? sss?
I'm not super famliair with dumbles but ive had some people mention that they might want some, also have access to some .125" thick aluminum

[telentubes]

I'd be up for a #102. That's popular, along with 124, 183, SSS, etc.

[stretch2011]

Give me the plans and I'll make them!

[telentubes]

Any particular format?

[stretch2011]

As long as I can read everything pretty easy. Pdf, stl,dwg.
I use Autodesk inventor so as long ad I can open the file we are good

[norburybrook]

Don't know if this is any help.

Marcus

[stretch2011]

Actually Marcus that helps a lot, hole size is half the information. I still need to know the x and y coordinates for the holes.

[telentubes]

See if this link gets you to Martin Manning's drawing of #124.
https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.ph ... ht=chassis
The post is called "#040 chassis dimensions", posted by Structo on March 8, 2010.

[David Root]

You should know that with the possible exception of some very early Dumbles eg Small Special and similar, all Dumble chassis were made from 1/8" aluminum aircraft alloy, nothing else. Some did have thinner end plates but the chassis/aprons plate was always 1/8".

Since he only made 50W or bigger amps up to 300W that's not too surprising.

Personally I would not use anything made of thinner material as it simply won't hold up to professional use.

[stretch2011]

Telentubes that will do it!

David I have access to some 1/8" aluminum: ) thanks for letting me know bot to go any smaller!

I'm thinking about powder coating thinking about it

[BarryW]

I'd definitely be interested in an aluminum chassis -

[Luthierwnc]

Roll your own:

http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-sho ... gQod14wARA

Getting the corners bends to match with the weld seams is the hard part because of the deflection. The holes and cuts you can get to hundredths of an inch. Don't make the cabs until you get the chassis and be sure to tell the CNC shop to do the welds on the inside so the beads don't increase the width you have on paper (something I forgot on the pictured chassis).

These save as a proprietary file format but the export is standard .DXF cad. After I've programmed the metalwork, I save a stripped-down version to create the faceplates. The blueprint and completed chassis are the same project. The 3D capture snapshot is from a preamp rack build.

I learned the hard way to "save-as" two or three working copies and alternate them every couple minutes of work. The 3D modeling feature has a auto-correct process that can turn what you have into a Picasso with no way to return where you were.

It is nice to get exactly what you want. I've always ended-up drilling a few holes but if you want an extra toggle switch on the panel or an XLR footswitch socket rather than a DIN or power and standby on the front, ain't nobody's business but your own. sh

[stretch2011]

Thank you. I do all my own cadd drawings then take them to a laser company where I cut out and bend them to shape. I own a tig welder so I do well my own tig welding also. I don't know I'd you've seen but I've done the 3 wrecks and a baseman.