Need advice from some of you Luthiers out there.

[LeftyStrat]

My beloved '73 Strat has a defect that has bugged me for years, and I have finally decided to do something about it.

This guitar was one of only three made in '73, and CBS couldn't even get it right when only making three.

The problem is that the tremelo bridge is not lined up properly with the cavity .

What I want to do is fill the holes and re-drill them. In the past for stripped threads I have used wood glue and matchsticks, but in this case I feel this needs something more dense, since it could affect the sustain of the guitar.

I've attached some pictures to show the problem.

Currently I am leaning towards using epoxy with a wood filler (West System 405) or graphite powder (West System 423).

The alternative I guess would be to drill the holes out and use a hardwood dowel.

Any suggestions?

[martin manning]

What is the issue? Limited travel of the block? With adjustable saddles you don't have any problem intonating it, do you? Is it just the fact that it isn't straight and shows a non-uniform gap?

[Jana]

I would recommend drilling out the holes and using hardwood dowels with titebond 2 wood glue. Epoxy certainly has its uses but I don't think this is one of them (based on my own experience).

[LeftyStrat]

What is the issue? Limited travel of the block? With adjustable saddles you don't have any problem intonating it, do you? Is it just the fact that it isn't straight and shows a non-uniform gap?

Yeah, it's the limited travel of the block due to the twist. The tremolo, damn it Leo, vibrato range is not all it could be.

[dreric]

I've tried to fix this kind of problem on Frankenstrats a few times and in all honesty I've never been able to get it better that it was BEFORE the fix.

What I learned:

No matter what you fill the holes with you are end up trying to re-drill into a surface with mixed hardness. The bit tends to stray into the softer area, which will be the body wood and now the hole is even more misplaced.

The best solution is to use a new bridge with a different mounting layout. Your bridge only has 4 screws. I'd get a Callahan, Stew Mac or stock Fender bridge with 6 screws.

Place the new bridge by blocking it / wedging in the backside cavity, then drill the middle screw hole, use a press.

Remove the bridge, fill the original holes trying to match density (NOT HARDER MATERIAL) and remount / wedge the bridge in place.

Start to drill out the 4 holes, use a press, small bit, bigger bit, then the right size all to keep the bit from straying.

If you are slow you get it right, but then again the guitar has been this way since birth and it may be best to leave it alone.

Hope this helps.

Eric

[dreric]

Last thought:

Make sure that the block hasn't slipped in relation to the saddle plate.

Eric

[tribi9]

Mill your own block and drill uneven holes on it to compensate!

[LeftyStrat]

The best solution is to use a new bridge with a different mounting layout. Your bridge only has 4 screws.

I appreciate your input, this is where I actually have an advantage. I'm replacing an original 73 Fender Tremolo with six screws with a Bladerunner (http://www.super-vee.com).

This is why I actually finally decided to do it. The Bladerunner has slots so I think I might be able to drill holes in completely different places from the original holes.

I went ahead with the suggestion of dowels, hardest wood I could find at 1/8" was Birch. I drilled out the screw holes to 1/8" and glued in the birch. Found one of those Japanese saws that can lay flat and saw off the top of the dowels flush with the body.

I recently bought a set of precision blocks for use on a milling machine, and I plan on using them to wedge the block evenly into the tremolo cavity and will then drill new holes. Hopefully I can drill into old wood rather than patched areas.

[LeftyStrat]

And by the way, for those of you into alternate strat wiring, I think I've come up with something unique. Modern strats use .022 for tone caps, older strats used .1 (which apparently EJ prefers). I bought two 250k pots that are push pull double pole double throw.

I wired one to select between .022 and .1 for the neck pickup. The other only has .022, but selects between having the tone control applied to the middle or bridge pickup.

At least that's the plan. I let you guys know as to how well it works.

[LeftyStrat]

One more thing. The other upgrade was going to Sperzel tuners. So far I am impressed.

[Cantplay]

If you use the drill/dowel mehod you need to use as fairly large dowel so that the new hole does not end up touching the edge.

When its dry put the bridge where you want it, clamp it in place and use it as a drill jig to center drill your pilot hole.

John

[M Fowler]

Awe winter is coming put the guitar in the kindling pile for heat.

[Structo]

I have built several strats and the problem with the six screw trem is getting the six holes perfectly in line, even using a drill press.

I think the best way would be to use a jig made from aluminum or thick plexi.

The problem is that a small drill bit flexes just enough to wander into the grain, resulting in uneven holes.

Good luck!

[stelligan]

One more thing. The other upgrade was going to Sperzel tuners. So far I am impressed.

I have a Strat with Sperzels and no string trees. Whammy heaven - but I am not a big wiggler. Rock solid tuning on that axe. I have heard great things about TonePros vintage locking tuners as well.
http://www.toneproskluson.com/models.html

I will forward your question to the luthier that recommended these.

[dreric]

The problem is that a small drill bit flexes just enough to wander into the grain, resulting in uneven holes.Good luck!

Bingo!