Bandsaw blades

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dynaman
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Bandsaw blades

Post by dynaman »

...for cutting board material. Any of you fellers do it? I've a cheap little Craftsman benchtop that I use. My last blade lasted a year, but I can't get it anymore. It was dark and prolly had a high carbon content. I've used the junk from Lowe's, Sears and Home Depot, but they're toast after 12". Maybe it's just because I've been trying to get rid of some GP03 I've had laying around. I used some G10 and didn't have probs, but I only made a few boards out of it.

Limiting my choices is the fact that my saw takes 59-1/4" blades. I can also use 59-1/2" blades (another "sort of" common size).

I've read that fiberglass will destroy most blades, but there must be SOME blade material out there that will hold up longer. Anybody try a custom made blade??

FWIW, I just ordered a fine tooth blade from Mcmaster Carr.
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selloutrr
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by selloutrr »

the same blades that cut howdy board and sheet rock should work

not sure if them make it but diamond blades work great. I use a miter saw with a concrete blade - cuts like butter.
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FunkyE9th
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by FunkyE9th »

I use wet cutting tile saw. Works great!
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M Fowler
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by M Fowler »

I clamp a straight edge to the bandsaw and cut away.

I am going to getting a wet saw for a house I am building so I will try that out, keeps the dust down and the wetsaw blade would work well I would think.

Mark
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selloutrr
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by selloutrr »

most wet tile saw blades are diamond so it should cut like butter.
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David Root
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by David Root »

Carbide is another possibility. I have a 12" bench model too, takes Sears 56 7/8" blades. I have been using a metal cutting blade on G10 no problem but I have cut brass and aluminum with it too. This GP03 must be really tuff stuff!
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by Cliff Schecht »

Wetsaws are also fantastic for cutting out FR4. Keeps that incredibly carcinogenic fiberglass dust out of the air and does a very clean job. I use a Dremel tool and a mask for now but I miss having my dads wetsaw back in Austin.
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Big Jim
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by Big Jim »

Just cut a piece yesterday, used a chop saw with a carbide tipped blade. Worked best if I sandwiched it between some scrap wood. Clean as buttah.
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Reeltarded
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by Reeltarded »

I'd go with a tile cutter.
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dynaman
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by dynaman »

Thanks for the replies. I'd really rather avoid anything "wet" or upgrading to a circular saw.

Mr. Root, McMaster Carr just delivered a metal cutting blade to me. I hope it works, as I planned on cutting thin metal with this blade as well.

It just occurred to me that I've never tried a dry lubricant. I don't know if that would help.

Regardless, I'm bailing on the GP03 even though it's cheaper than G10. I took a good look at some scraps of the various materials I've used and it's obvious that GP03 is the only material that's made by dumping a bunch of fiberglass into a mixing vat containing resin. All my other board materials are made with a thinly woven fiberglass mesh suspended in some sort of plastic. In essence, a blade "sees" less fiberglass in these materials.

Since I've a little bit of GP03 left, I think I'm just gonna touch the blade every once in while with a bar of soap and see what that does.

Thanks for the input.
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selloutrr
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by selloutrr »

as long as you dont force it and let the blade do the cutting you should be fine
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gearhead
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by gearhead »

FunkyE9th wrote:I use wet cutting tile saw. Works great!
Same here. Got a little portable one from Loews years ago. Straight cuts and none of the nasty dust. Drilling holes is something different; wait for a good day outside.
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M Fowler
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by M Fowler »

I cut with my cheap bandsaw a Sears model and go very slow so blad deflection is at it's minimum.

The only time I have a problem is if I am in a hurry and try to force the work piece too fast. Then it will walk off center line and cut crooked.

Mark
dynaman
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by dynaman »

M Fowler wrote:I cut with my cheap bandsaw a Sears model and go very slow so blad deflection is at it's minimum.

The only time I have a problem is if I am in a hurry and try to force the work piece too fast. Then it will walk off center line and cut crooked.

Mark
Yeah, that's how I know my blade is shot. The teeth wind up being completely rounded off and it will start deflecting. I really think my prob is just that GP03 is particularly hard on blades. I've been reading up and general consensus is that fiberglass simply eats 'em up. If this next blade doesn't hold up well with G10 I think I might just consider using my cordless jigsaw against a straight edge. Way bigger and cheaper variety of blades. We prolly have the same bandsaws, so you know what a PIA it is to properly set them up, especially when trying out completely different blades.

What kind of blade and board material are you using?
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Structo
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Re: Bandsaw blades

Post by Structo »

I believe the G10 is made with epoxy resin and fiberglass.

It does dull blades for sure.

I haven't cut any amount of board so when I had to I just used a Dremel with cut off wheel.

But the wet tile saw sounds like the safe way to go about cutting a lot of board.

The dust is nasty.
Tom

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