Step by step BM HRM build...

[mcinku]

Installed the boards... warning , do the main board first and then power board... I installed the power board first and man was I angry when I had to run those wires to presence pot or to power tubes
...anyway as you can see I still need to wire V1,V2,V3 sockets

[Tubetastic]

Using eyelets on the boards seems like a good choice rather than turrets and something I need to start doing myself.


Mark

Is it a personal preference or is there a reason you say that, Mark?



I envy you, mcinku - one day I too will have THE tone!

[Guitarman18]

Looking good mcinku!

You may have already completed your socket wiring as I type this but just in case, I'll say it anyway... Don't forget that the lead dress (particularly around the sockets) is everything in these amps, so make sure you keep one eye on something like #124, rather than make it all straight lines and right angles!

I apologise in advance if you already know this but for the sake of saving you some time and effort it is worth mentioning.


Good luck!

Cheers, Paul.

[ChrisM]

Looking good mcinku!

You may have already completed your socket wiring as I type this but just in case, I'll say it anyway... Don't forget that the lead dress (particularly around the sockets) is everything in these amps, so make sure you keep one eye on something like #124, rather than make it all streight lines and right angles!

I apologise in advance if you already know this but for the sake of saving you some time and effort it is worth mentioning.


Good luck!

Cheers, Paul.

If you had to mention a few quick tips for the wring of the sockets what would they be? Lengths, positioning...

All I know so far is, plates and cathodes parallel.

[M Fowler]

Tubetastic

Yes it is preference but many of the good builders on this forum have said they like them as well.

With the eyelets you can get more component leads (cap, resistor, wire) in the hole making it neater looking in my opinion. I first tried the single turrets then the double and now I will go with eyelets. Not for all amps but those with heavy populated boards and cap boards.

Mark

[Guitarman18]

ChrisM wrote:

If you had to mention a few quick tips for the wring of the sockets what would they be? Lengths, positioning...

All I know so far is, plates and cathodes parallel.

1, I would make sure that my grid load resistors on V1 & V2 were not in contact with any other wires. (Keep them high)

2, Cathode of V1a loops round the back of the socket to run parallel (not always touching) the plate wire of V1b. Same for V2.

3, Often, V1b cathode wire crosses V1b plate at about 30 degrees. Some builds show them running together for an inch or so?

4, I would have kept my heaters in the air, so that they didn't cross my V1a cathode, but having said that, a number of people seem to have had no issues doing that. ( I've never tried it!)

5, Give each wire a little extra run that tucks under the board, so that you can lift it slightly without having to disconnect wires in case you need to solder from the bottom of the board. ie. PCB's

6, Keep PI wires nicely separated.

7,Check out Funk's lead dress:

https://tubeamparchive.com/download/file.php?id=2759

Before I discovered this site (when I thought I was the only one in the world trying to figure this stuff out. ) I made things look really smart but it sounded harsh and characterless. When I discovered this site, the first thing I did was to change my lead dress along with many, many other changes that all add up to what I think is a great amp now.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Paul.

[Structo]

Using eyelets on the boards seems like a good choice rather than turrets and something I need to start doing myself.


Mark

Is it a personal preference or is there a reason you say that, Mark?

Also, I feel the eyelet board is more friendly to modding.
Like when you want to try several different tone caps, or resistors.
Unwrapping leads from turrets is no fun.

[Tubetastic]

Tubetastic

Yes it is preference but many of the good builders on this forum have said they like them as well.

With the eyelets you can get more component leads (cap, resistor, wire) in the hole making it neater looking in my opinion. I first tried the single turrets then the double and now I will go with eyelets. Not for all amps but those with heavy populated boards and cap boards.

Mark

I've never used Turrets and I was/am contemplating using them - I have previously used eyelets.


TBH, it was Aikens' comment that made me contemplate trying out Turrets. His size recommedation on another forum was 1509-4 and 1582-4 (1582 being Taller, but not fatter - the 4 denotes they fit a 0.125" board....)



His comment on Turrets V Eyelets is on the 10th Question down :

Why do you use point-to-point instead of PCB? Because it sounds better?


See the 'Tech Info' link, there's a Technical Q&A link on that page, with the comment.


.......................Aiken site




---------------------------------




"Unwrapping leads from turrets is no fun. "


I agree. That is very much a downside, Structo.



Apologies for the Diversion, Mcinku.

[mcinku]

OK here we go...

10. My v1,v2,v3 job (how did I do?)

[mcinku]

11. And finally PT job

[mcinku]

12. ...and a few more shots.

[mcinku]

This is my third amp build ever...and my first D style, so I'm quite pleased with the outcome. Not bad for a noob like me.
I'm taking her to my amp tech tomorrow...we'll power that scope and sine generator and see what this baby can do.

[M Fowler]

The amp looks good, I hope she fires up and runs smooth as well.

Does any one have an opinion regarding Nik's Holy Grail electro caps he uses in his builds?

Mark

[Structo]

Looks good.

No snubbers on V2?

[BobW]

Mcinku,
What schematic are you using as a reference? So far, it's a great job on the layout.