Thanks for the pics Bob.
What are the blue discs on the rectifier board?
Ceramic caps?
MOV's?
The Dilbert Principle: aka. My amp's done/Pics
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: The Dilbert Principle: aka. My amp's done/Pics
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!
Re: The Dilbert Principle: aka. My amp's done/Pics
Thx for looking guys.
The heater wires are all running parallel. It's VERY quiet and easy to do. Soldano does it this way so I tried it on my SLO clone, and every amp since.
The leads fomr the PT to the first tube socket is twisted. Parallel stranded PTFE between power tubes, then twisted from the last power tube to the rods. I inserted a 3/64" brass rod through the preamp socket.
It makes for a clean build and very easy to do. The only downside is if you have to change a preamp socket you have to cut the rods as they're run through the holes.
The blue disks on the rectifier board are ceramic caps, .01uF.
I used the ODS-101 circuit but no bright cap on the OD master. I find that I just turn the HRM treble up a tad and it sounds more even from low volume to high volume where the bright cap is brighter/fizzy at low volume.
I only have the footswitch wiring to finish. I want to add a 3rd relay for mid boost. The FS is labeled "Just won't stall" "Snot" and "Goes to 11" for Overdrive (think Hot Rod Lincoln), mid boost and PAB.
The heater wires are all running parallel. It's VERY quiet and easy to do. Soldano does it this way so I tried it on my SLO clone, and every amp since.
The leads fomr the PT to the first tube socket is twisted. Parallel stranded PTFE between power tubes, then twisted from the last power tube to the rods. I inserted a 3/64" brass rod through the preamp socket.
It makes for a clean build and very easy to do. The only downside is if you have to change a preamp socket you have to cut the rods as they're run through the holes.
The blue disks on the rectifier board are ceramic caps, .01uF.
I used the ODS-101 circuit but no bright cap on the OD master. I find that I just turn the HRM treble up a tad and it sounds more even from low volume to high volume where the bright cap is brighter/fizzy at low volume.
I only have the footswitch wiring to finish. I want to add a 3rd relay for mid boost. The FS is labeled "Just won't stall" "Snot" and "Goes to 11" for Overdrive (think Hot Rod Lincoln), mid boost and PAB.