5F6A popping fuses
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Smokebreak
- Posts: 1391
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- Location: Texas
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
400V plates, 50mA. Loud. Thanks a bunch guys. We'll see if a Sloblow pops anything tomorrow.
Is there anything else I need to take into account here to keep the SS diodes and ditch the tube rectifier?
Is there anything else I need to take into account here to keep the SS diodes and ditch the tube rectifier?
- JazzGuitarGimp
- Posts: 2357
- Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2012 4:54 pm
- Location: Northern CA
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
At 400V, it looks like you're in a safe zone for the output tubes. Certainly, Leo pushed 6L6's up higher than that. I'd say if you're happy with the tone, keep it as is. I don't think you mentioned which variant of 6L6 you're running. I assume 6L6GC, yes? Are they new production, or from back in the day?Smokebreak wrote:400V plates, 50mA. Loud. Thanks a bunch guys. We'll see if a Sloblow pops anything tomorrow.
Is there anything else I need to take into account here to keep the SS diodes and ditch the tube rectifier?
Lou Rossi Designs
Printed Circuit Design & Layout,
and Schematic Capture
Printed Circuit Design & Layout,
and Schematic Capture
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Smokebreak
- Posts: 1391
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:53 pm
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
I'll see if my buddy likes it at 400. Going for headroom, and the higher voltage taps would put me around 450.... I'm using 6l6GC. I started off with some TAD that I ran in my Vibrolux for about 3 yrs that I just replaced in that amp. Then I put in some pulls from a Gibson GA95.. Peavey branded. What I like to do, that I do in all my 6V6 amps is start with the black shugs you can get on eBay for cheap. One actually came branded Mesa. That don't sound bad either. Anyways, I should have planned for startup a little better as I don't have any throwaway 6L6s.... I robbed my Rocket of its GZ34 for this amp too
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
At least it wasn't a Mullard.
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Smokebreak
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
True that. At $15 a tube I guess the jj gz IS a throwaway
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
I keep reading about JJ GZ34s blowin up! That's not cool when you're using one in an amp with other nice tubes...
No more JJs...
Glad you got it figured out, Smoke.
No more JJs...
Glad you got it figured out, Smoke.
- JazzGuitarGimp
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
Yup, I made up my mind nearly two years ago: no more jj ANYTHING! They make shit products, and their customer service sucks too.
Lou Rossi Designs
Printed Circuit Design & Layout,
and Schematic Capture
Printed Circuit Design & Layout,
and Schematic Capture
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Smokebreak
- Posts: 1391
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:53 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
Me too! Last night actually. Thing is I do like the 6V6. They seem pretty tough(for my personal buget)
This amp will wind up with some nice NOS once it's said and done. This is the one for the fiddle player that I have another thread about. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about Tungsol 5881 from Hitest, as I've been given a $400 tube budget. What would you guys do?
This amp will wind up with some nice NOS once it's said and done. This is the one for the fiddle player that I have another thread about. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about Tungsol 5881 from Hitest, as I've been given a $400 tube budget. What would you guys do?
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
I'm headed that way. I've been using their EL84s as test pigs, but I'm a little worried about them too. Don't need them taking out a tranny in a newly made amp!JazzGuitarGimp wrote:Yup, I made up my mind nearly two years ago: no more jj ANYTHING! They make shit products, and their customer service sucks too.
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
TungSol would be the most conventional route and after them you have a good budget left over for some nice GE 12AX7s, and maybe even a Mullard GZ34... Or a 5V4 for much less. I have a pair of TungSols in my JTM build.Smokebreak wrote:Me too! Last night actually. Thing is I do like the 6V6. They seem pretty tough(for my personal buget)
This amp will wind up with some nice NOS once it's said and done. This is the one for the fiddle player that I have another thread about. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about Tungsol 5881 from Hitest, as I've been given a $400 tube budget. What would you guys do?
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Smokebreak
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
I'm stickin with SS diodes so my budget just got even nicerBlackburn wrote:TungSol would be the most conventional route and after them you have a good budget left over for some nice GE 12AX7s, and maybe even a Mullard GZ34... Or a 5V4 for much less. I have a pair of TungSols in my JTM build.Smokebreak wrote:Me too! Last night actually. Thing is I do like the 6V6. They seem pretty tough(for my personal buget)
This amp will wind up with some nice NOS once it's said and done. This is the one for the fiddle player that I have another thread about. Any suggestions? I'm thinking about Tungsol 5881 from Hitest, as I've been given a $400 tube budget. What would you guys do?
I've got a 5V4, but check the last sentence from The Tube Store : Why is that?
Tweed Bassman 5F6A
First tube is preamp, 12AY7 is specified. 6072A may also be used. A low- noise, low-microphony 5751, 12AX7, or 7025 is also usable, though they will have more voltage gain and will change the sound of the amp considerably.
Second tube is a 12AX7. This is the driver. Any 12AX7 or 7025 is usable here--it need not be low-noise or low-hum, nor does it need to be tested for microphony.
Third tube is a 12AX7. This is the phase inverter tube. This tube need not be low-noise or low-hum, nor does it need to be tested for microphony. It must have good quality heater insulation. 12AX7s or 7025s are suitable. Good NOS 12AT7s may also be used here. We understand that some technicians recommend Ei or Preferred Series 7025 for this duty.
Power tubes are a pair of 6L6 (5881s were originally specified). Recommend using matched pair of 6L6GCs or NOS 6L6Gs, GAs, GBs, or WGB, or 5881s. Current TAD 6L6WGC-STR and re-issue Tung-Sol 5881 are the best option in place of NOS tubes. Also acceptable are NOS JAN-Philips 6L6WGB, and NOS types 7581A, KT66 or 350B. NOS metal 6L6s run too hot. DO NOT use other types.
Rectifier tube is 5AR4, GZ34. This tube should be of good quality. 5R4 types may also be used, although the amplifier will sound different. Do not attempt to use 5Y3, 5V4 or 5U4 types.
- Reeltarded
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
Another evil convert.
Muhahahahaha
Muhahahahaha
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
- martin manning
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
5V4's current rating is lower than 5AR4, too low for this application.Smokebreak wrote:I'm stickin with SS diodes so my budget just got even nicerI've got a 5V4, but check the last sentence from The Tube Store...
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Smokebreak
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Re: 5F6A popping fuses
Ah I see. 5V4 rated at 175 mA and 5AR4 at 250mA. My PT is 200mA, so there it is. But, I've seen PTs for these sorts of Bassman/JTM below 175ma so I would think 5V4 "could" work. Is it a matter of too close for comfort/safe side?martin manning wrote:5V4's current rating is lower than 5AR4, too low for this application.Smokebreak wrote:I'm stickin with SS diodes so my budget just got even nicerI've got a 5V4, but check the last sentence from The Tube Store...
Re: 5F6A popping fuses
The 5V4 would almost work, but you don't want to arc one. Interestingly, the GZ32 is usually considered equivalent to the 5V4 and according to the Philips datasheet would certainly work here (250-275mA at these voltages). Strange that they would also nix the 5U4, which can easily deliver the current, but would sag the supply a bit.