Etching a board set for my HRM build...

[ic-racer]

Finally got the stuff to etch my HRM boards. I'm using the templates I posted here: https://tubeamparchive.com/viewtopic.php?t=6098

I used some Photo Inkjet paper from Staples. It transferred OK but leaves a whitish residue over the toner transfer. Many web tutorials say its ok to leave that, but it gives everything a jagged edge.

I have started with the Rectifier board and, after scraping the white residue around the traces and touching up a few areas, it looks OK for etching. Pictures to follow.

[ic-racer]

These two boards have been cleaned up with an Exacto blade and touched up with a Sharpie marker. Ready for etching.

[martin manning]

ic, what "system" are you using to do this? All-DIY?

I have looked at this kit:

http://www.pulsarprofx.com/

Maybe the paper sold there and the overcoating step would eliminate the fuzzy edges and touch-up you are having to do. The laminator suggested looks like a good bet for consistent results too, but closer reading says it really isn't designed to process boards thicker than 1/32", but it will run 1/16" boards with a little persuasion.

I think some others here have tried this. Anybody have experience with the whole process? The white decal process looks interesting, too, but I don't know if it would be durable enough for panel marking.

MPM

[v00d00blues79]

There is always the PNP Blue option. I've always had good luck with it.

Andy

[ic-racer]

ic, what "system" are you using to do this? All-DIY?

I was primarily using the techniques detailed in these two sites:
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm
http://www.headwize.com/projects/garbz2_prj.php

If I had to do more than one amp, I'd probably use one of the commercial systems like you pointed out.

It turns out that scraping the extra white stuff around each of the traces was not too bad. The toner stayed put and the white stuff flaked right off.

I posted the PC board images a while back. Kind of in the back of my mind thinking one of the vendors on this site might produce a board set based on them (so I would not have to do this myself ). But so far it is turning out to be not so difficult, just a little time-consuming.

[v00d00blues79]

IC,

Quick question for you... What application are you using to print these and what are your sizing settings? Im trying to print a couple off to try these out and am having a bit of a time getting the print size correct.

Thanks!

Andy

[ic-racer]

I don't recall off hand but some of them were drawn at 2x size, so they many need to be printed at at 50%. Some have an included scale or dimensions to double check the size. Once they are printed on regular paper, I took them to a copy center and copied them onto INKJET glossy photopaper using a standard toner-based copy machine.

The original drawings were done in the vector graphics program Aldus Freehand. To make the files for the internet posting, I exported the drawings as encapsulated post script and opened them with Photoshop, and from there saved them as Jpeg.

With all those transformations, there may be errors in the size, therefore the need of some trial and error possibly. If there is a board you are having trouble with I can give you exact dimensions if needed.

[ic-racer]

Another thing, even though I have a full-featured darkroom, I still find it easier to just use this copy-toner-transfer method.

[Structo]

So is the method you use the one where you take an iron and iron the photo paper onto the copper clad board, that transfers the ink to the board?

[heisthl]

Another thing, even though I have a full-featured darkroom, I still find it easier to just use this copy-toner-transfer method.

Can you add that work area to my shop?

[ic-racer]

This is what I am trying to duplicate.

[ic-racer]

So is the method you use the one where you take an iron and iron the photo paper onto the copper clad board, that transfers the ink to the board?

Exactly. I'm not going to perfect it in 7 tries, but it seems failures are due to uneven pressure or uneven temp. I have been able to save all failures so far by just filling in the missing pieces with a Sharpie marker. Dumble's original patterns were probably hand drawn anyway, so the curvilinear shapes are easy to draw with the marker.

I'll probably try to etch a few tonight.

[ic-racer]

The current Staples brand photo paper has a plastic coating on both sides, so it no longer is the best paper to use.

For the last boards I just used a color page from a magazine (not shown in the picture). That seemed to work pretty nice.

[ic-racer]

Etching in process...

[ic-racer]

Finished product.