Turning a Deluxe tonestack to a regular Bass, Treble, Volume

[tribi9]

Is there any way of doing it?

Schematic here.

http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutP ... iatone.jpg

Cheers.

[10thTx]

You can parallel V1 going into a typical Fender style tone stack easily. Change out the 1M's for a 250k treble and 500k bass. This way you are not having to add any pots or drill new holes. (I am assuming this is not a vintage amp?)

You can either install a terminal strip on the chassis between the layout board and pots ............OR solder a terminal strip on the back of a pot.

A paralleled V1 will give you about 30% more gain with no increase in floor noise. IF you are using a 12AX7 in V1, you can switch to a 12AY7 or a 12AV7 for less gain if you want that.

However, keep in mind that the increase in gain (from a paralleled V1) will somewhat be offset by a decrease using a typical Fenderish tone stack which has more insertion loss than a 5E3 tone stack.

Also I would NOT use the 22uf cathode cap, instead I would either use a 4.7uf or use a 2.2uf and parallel a 4.7uf with a spst mini-toggle. This will
allow you a simple tone change by simply changing the cathode cap values. OR ....... you can simply try different values to see what you like and use that value. I personally think a 22uf gives waaaayyyyy too much mud for what I am wanting in tone.


With respect, 10thtx

[Structo]

Do you think that will change the character of a Deluxe which I am going to assume is a 5E3?

OK, I see your layout.

So it is a 6L6 5E3?

Mod away!

[tribi9]

You can parallel V1 going into a typical Fender style tone stack easily. Change out the 1M's for a 250k treble and 500k bass. This way you are not having to add any pots or drill new holes. (I am assuming this is not a vintage amp?)

Firs of all thx for your time responding, and no it is not a vintage amp. It's for a homemade concoction hehee....

You can either install a terminal strip on the chassis between the layout board and pots ............OR solder a terminal strip on the back of a pot.
A paralleled V1 will give you about 30% more gain with no increase in floor noise. IF you are using a 12AX7 in V1, you can switch to a 12AY7 or a 12AV7 for less gain if you want that.

Im using a 12AY7 on V1.

However, keep in mind that the increase in gain (from a paralleled V1) will somewhat be offset by a decrease using a typical Fenderish tone stack which has more insertion loss than a 5E3 tone stack.

So If I were to just parallel V1 and leave the same tone stack, I would get a more dramatic change then? Maybe Ill try this first.

Also I would NOT use the 22uf cathode cap, instead I would either use a 4.7uf or use a 2.2uf and parallel a 4.7uf with a spst mini-toggle. This will
allow you a simple tone change by simply changing the cathode cap values. OR ....... you can simply try different values to see what you like and use that value. I personally think a 22uf gives waaaayyyyy too much mud for what I am wanting in tone.


With respect, 10thtx

I have an 820 cathode resistor that is already being shared on V1. Should I still double the value to 1.5k?

Cheers

[tribi9]

Do you think that will change the character of a Deluxe which I am going to assume is a 5E3?

OK, I see your layout.

So it is a 6L6 5E3?

Mod away!

Thx Tom...


Will do as you say!

[10thTx]

What are you trying to accomplish? It is difficult to answer your follow up questions in a useful way without knowing what you are wanting to do?

With respect, 10thtx

[tribi9]

What i want to accomplish is to just plainly turn my tonestack to volume, bass, treble. This is purely experimental I guess. I do find the tone of my amp a little dark/muddy (Not good at describing sounds) But I think I want it to sound closer to a Princeton...

Something like this here...

http://www.turretboards.com/layouts_sch ... layout.gif



So far I have (From the 5X3 schematic)

http://www.ceriatone.com/images/layoutP ... iatone.jpg

Paralleled pin 1 to 6, 2 to 7, and 3 to 8. I've removed the .022 cap/100k resistor coming out of pin 6. As it now shares the .1 cap/100k with pin 1.

But im confused as to where to go from here... Because Im not sure why the blue wire coming from the 1M Volume pot goes to pin 2 on V2 on the ceriatone layout. But im just looking over the two layouts to see if I can figure it out how to connect my now paralleled V1 to the tonestack.. That's where Im at right now.

I do notice the amp is quieter now with the paralleled V1. Much quieter (As in noise).... But my middle volume isn't doing anything right now I dont think, have not touched the tonestack yet.

[10thTx]

Your other volume pot should be disconnected. Parallel V1 (as I drew it) eliminates one volume pot so you can use that pot hole to wire a 2 pot volume FTS.

I would NOT use the .1 personally. I would use a .02 or .01 if you're gonna keep the 5E3 tone stack.

With respect, 10thtx

[tribi9]

Ok, so this is what I got right now...

A working amp with paralleled V1, first half of the V2 unused, a working volume but no bass, no treble. I have only wired one pot as Im not sure what to do next.

Im happy that the little hiss and hum I used to have with the deluxe tonestack is completely gone.

[rock_mumbles]

If you parallel the triodes and then put in a Fender TB tone control and a properly wired volume control you'll have an amp a lot like one of the early push-pull Princeton amps, an amp with lots of cleans ... even with cathode bias.

[tribi9]

If you parallel the triodes and then put in a Fender TB tone control and a properly wired volume control you'll have an amp a lot like one of the early push-pull Princeton amps, an amp with lots of cleans ... even with cathode bias.

That's what Im after.

Would you know how to do it or have an schematic layout I could use?

[10thTx]

Would you know how to do it or have an schematic layout I could use?

I already posted a schematic and layout for you. What I drew simply goes between V1 and the 2nd gain stage of a 5E3. That's it.

V1-1 & V1-6 are tied together and go to a 100k that goes to B+. And the tone stack comes off the V1-1/V1-6 pin connection.

V2 & V7 are tied together and go to the input

V3 & V8 are tied together and go to a cathode cap and resistor that goes to ground.

It's that simple.

You can also try a 82k, or 68k or 56k for the plate resistor if you still want more headroom. Smaller value should give more headroom.

With respect, 10thtx

[tribi9]

Thank you, for the detailed explanation. I should be good now.

Respect back to you 10thTx

[10thTx]

If you would please, let us know whether you like or don't like when done?

Thanks, 10thtx

[tribi9]

Will definitely let you know 10thTx, no problem.