Loud clicking noise

[SoundPerf]

This is probably a long shot, but I thought I would throw it out there. The one photo looking at the HRM board from the front of the amp, the right side stand-off looks like it is very close to the trimmer lead eyelet. Could there be some arcing happening? I don't think there's much voltage there, but one never knows.

[Structo]

Have you tried replacing the standby switch?

Most switches can't handle DC very well.

Once it arcs, it will probably continue to do so.

Also, you have the 100K on the HRM output right?

[dcribbs1412]

Thanks Chris, Tom
the arcing or clicking noise is gone...
replacing the caps fixed it. Now I have a farting/cutting out when I dig into notes...it sounds good at lower volumes...not sure if I should start a new thread.

Darin

[Structo]

Hmmm, well glad you got the ticking sorted.

When it cuts out does it kind of sputter with ugly distortion before it cuts out?

Sure sounds like blocking distortion.

And it does this on both clean and OD?

BTW, what do you have your power tubes biased at?

[dcribbs1412]

Hmmm, well glad you got the ticking sorted.

When it cuts out does it kind of sputter with ugly distortion before it cuts out?

Sure sounds like blocking distortion.

And it does this on both clean and OD?

Hi Tom
Yes...more than cutting out is the sputtering/farting...
even at lower volume it plays decent but when I dig hard into any note
it sputters/distorts...in clean and OD.
Changed the 5.6k's to 6.2 no change.

Darin

[Structo]

with it in both clean and OD it probably in the PI or power stages.

Earlier you mentioned you had the bias set at 36ma @ 440v.

Is this still true?

That comes out to be around 16w per tube minus a little for the screen.

Try a little hotter bias.

double check plate voltage as it can change with more current on the tubes.

(be careful, use a clip on lead to the plate pins before turning on the amp, as it is easy to slip off and short something).

Clip black lead on a good chassis ground.

Also, pull the power tubes (amp off) and double check your screen resistor values.

[dcribbs1412]

with it in both clean and OD it probably in the PI or power stages.

Earlier you mentioned you had the bias set at 36ma @ 440v.

Is this still true?

That comes out to be around 16w per tube minus a little for the screen.

Try a little hotter bias.

double check plate voltage as it can change with more current on the tubes.

(be careful, use a clip on lead to the plate pins before turning on the amp, as it is easy to slip off and short something).

Clip black lead on a good chassis ground.

Also, pull the power tubes (amp off) and double check your screen resistor values.

Yes around 36ma@440v..will try 40-42
both screens check around 1k
BTW this is a dlite I'm converting to HRM(bias points)

[Structo]

I have a D'lite as well and I just checked my notes.

I have 440v on the plates and biased at 36ma.

I have 560R screen resistors.

And you have tried different power tubes right?

[dcribbs1412]

I have a D'lite as well and I just checked my notes.

I have 440v on the plates and biased at 36ma.

I have 560R screen resistors.

And you have tried different power tubes right?

Yes but using 6ca7's

[Structo]

And it looks like you have pins 1 & 8 jumpered so that is right.

Do you any 6L6 you can try?

Oh and to be clear, you ordered the D'lite 44 with the 4K OT?
And the larger PT?

[dcribbs1412]

And it looks like you have pins 1 & 8 jumpered so that is right.

Do you any 6L6 you can try?

Oh and to be clear, you ordered the D'lite 44 with the 4K OT?
And the larger PT?

I do have a set of 6l6's I can try
I have the original PT from a 22/33 kit...I thought it had 7A heater voltage?
I'm using a MC 50 watt OT

[Structo]

This is the PT that came with my D'lite 44 (6L6GC)

[dcribbs1412]

Tom,
I have the same PT
quick lunch changes...
tried running bias hotter, changed the 5Watt 1k's...still not working

[Deric]

Is the farting sound the same as when you plugged the fx send into a different amp? Sounds like a pre-amp problem if so.... If it's there in both clean and overdrive I'd concentrate on v1. Also the od swith and PAB wiring.

What happens if you plug directly into the fx return?

[Structo]

Deric's comment makes sense.

Make sure your cathode bypass on V1 is right.
That is if you used two different value plate resistors, make sure the cathode cap and resistor is paired with the right section of tube.

In other words, V1a and V1b.