Sourcing parts for a 124 build.

[brentm]

So, I'm thinking about the next parts of a 124 build. It seems to be the most well documented and well known amp, and it just seems that for me, it's perhaps the most straight forward build.

I probably don't have any business putting an amp like this together, but I really want to learn more about the craft and reading books just isn't doing it for me. I think once I get in the thick of it, I'll learn more than I could ever learn from research alone.

At any rate, I've sourced my orange drops (and then some). Placed a large order of parts from Mouser (thanks to the BOM'ers for the part numbers, that really helped!!!). I have an updated spreadsheet I'll post once I get it cleaned up to reflect some of the rolling Mouser changes to return the goodness that has come my way from this forum...

So I really am missing the following components.

1. Transformers...
2. Chassis
3. Board set.

So the chassis from Thailand has slide switches, and I'm not a fan personally. Not to mention it's not cut for an IEC power connector and is 1/4" too long for what I want. I'll end up with a head cab from AmplifiedNation but I do want it to fit in a 19" head cabinet (I have a combo that it should fit in with some tweaks at 19"). I exchanged emails with Mark and it sounds like there will be another set of chassis soon.

I have a piece of formica cut for the mainboard, but I think I'd rather have a set of boards from Jborders5. I'm sure he'll have stock very soon so I'll wait for those. Staying true to the 124, it looks Mr. D. used some other material for the baords.

So, after thinking out loud a bit. I have a couple questions.

1. Precision power supply vs. 124 power supply board. What are the pros/cons? Would it be worth it to come as close as possible to the 124 (330uf 350vdc is an odd cap to procure) with the old style power supply board??.

2. Transformers. Any recommendations on brand? I'm thinking ClassicTone unless I try to find some Fender iron. I'm a little sketched on buying used/NOS iron as it introduces some question marks that new iron wouldn't.

3. Wire suggestions. 20 awg solid core in various colors. Any recs on wire source?

Thanks for any comments suggestions!!! Worst case scenario, I have a bunch of doo-dads in my parts bin. But I think with the help from folks here, I can pull something off.

Thanks all!
-Brent

[sonicmojo]

I was the same as you at the beginning of last year. Now I have four Dumble builds under my belt. The first from scratch is probably the most satisfying so good luck to you!

I like the ClassicTone transformers and have used them my two 3rd gen builds from last year and would do it again. They get really hot to the touch but sound good to me and I've not had any problems.

I'm pretty sure I got my last batch of different colored teflon hookup wire from Apex Jr. at a decent value. I highly recommend the teflon for most connections as it won't melt. For the Coax connections, I prefer the white teflon RG188 I got from Apex Jr. It is very thin and easy to work with and won't melt either. Call Steve and he'll help you out. I recently got a good deal on a 300 ft. spool of RG174 that is also easy to unbraid and work with. PM me if you want some.

Watts Tube Audio (a.k.a. www.turretboards.com) will cut boards for you to the dimensions you want and also have the eyelet tool and eyelets you'd need for everything but the small relay boards. You'd have to drill and punch the eyelets but it is pretty straightforward. They also have sockets, impedance switch, and a few other misc. parts that may be useful. They are local to me and I pop in there from time to time.

[Bob S]

For my 124 I got the chassis, boards & transformers from RJ.
Highly recommended - great to work with.
The relay boards & power supply I got from Colossal.
They are very high quality too.
Good luck & have fun.
Bob

[passfan]

I hope you went over the BOM's with a fine toothed comb. I got bit by a couple of wrong part numbers and wound up reordering. I am still tweaking my build so I haven't had time to post any corrections yet. If you don't mind drilling the front and rear holes I have a welded Dirty Dog chassis and a set of 124 plates from RJ without the 124 on them I am not planning on using right now. The top has been punched out already as per CE Chassis's layout. I'll make you a deal. I could never get the chassis guy in the far east to respond to my emails.

[brentm]

@SonicMojo - thanks man!!! I was looking at teflon hookup wire. You didn't go with silver coated did you? I worry about metal incompatibility with that stuff. I do like Watts Tube audio. I just don't really want to drill/punch the first time around. I do have a bunch of eyelets from a recent mouser order of variou sizes. I just don't have the right tool to make the eyeleys look correct on the backside. I do still need sockets and a few misc parts as well.

@Bob S - thanks for the recommendation of RJ! Do you have a picture of Colossal's boards? I'll PM him to see if he has any left.

@passfan - I didn't go over the BOM's with too much scrutiny. I figure I'll get 90 percent there and then order parts from Mouser again. It'll keep me going slow and double/triple checking things. I tend to get a little impatient with their website and I'm sure I might have accidentally skipped a line. I do have a great electronics store locally that I spend too much time at, so I can ususally pick up parts there if I'm in a pinch.

I did see your advertisement for the undrilled chassis and had considered it. Why did you decide to sell it??? My hesistation is really that I always end up screwing up the drilling. I can't tell you how many pedals I've done with holes that weren't completely centered and it bugs the hell out of me. I don't have a drill press, and it'd look bad if I used the one at work.

Still kinda curious on the precision power supply question if anyone can shed some light.

Thanks!!!!

[passfan]

I ordered it from RJ when I couldn't get a CE chassis . I placed an ad for a CE chassis and another member who had recently purchased a clone at a good price decided not to build and sold me his. So know I've completed my build and I've an extra left over. It will get used or sold one day, just not now.

[brentm]

I ordered it from RJ when I couldn't get a CE chassis . I placed an ad for a CE chassis and another member who had recently purchased a clone at a good price decided not to build and sold me his. So know I've completed my build and I've an extra left over. It will get used or sold one day, just not now.

I gotcha... I got a lead on a CE chassis as well, so I'm going to hold out for that unit. I do appreciate the offer

[renshen1957]

@SonicMojo - thanks man!!! I was looking at teflon hookup wire. You didn't go with silver coated did you? I worry about metal incompatibility with that stuff. I do like Watts Tube audio. I just don't really want to drill/punch the first time around. I do have a bunch of eyelets from a recent mouser order of variou sizes. I just don't have the right tool to make the eyeleys look correct on the backside. I do still need sockets and a few misc parts as well.

............................

Thanks!!!!

Hi,

I wasn't aware of any teflon hookup wire that wasn't silver plated.

Best Regards,

Steve

[brentm]

Thanks for the info Steve!

[sonicmojo]

I think I went with the Belton sockets, the brown ones, and have had better success. Once I used a set of cheaper black sockets from somewhere and the solder easily dripped into the tube pin areas, a real hassle. But I can't remember exactly the brand so don't skimp on your sockets and don't over-solder that area for that reason. Gravity sucks!

[ApexJr.]

Hi,

I wasn't aware of any teflon hookup wire that wasn't silver plated.

Best Regards,

Steve[/quote]



There is .....
Nickel Plated Teflon wire, Higher heat to solder to...
I've made mistakes buying and have a bunch in stock

Steve @ Apex Jr