Big honkin' uh-oh - solved thanks to LeftyStrat

[mlp-mx6]

So I'm drilling and testing the mounting holes in a new ODS cab from Taylor. I guess something gets caught in the threads of one of the screws (this is a CE chassis) and the screw locks up. So I go to back out the screw and the nut busts loose from the chassis instead. So now the amp is trapped in the cab and I cannot get the screw out. I guess I'm going to have to try to cut this stainless bolt and hope it falls in far enough that I can get the chassis out.

Any better ideas? Thanks folks.

Michael

[LeftyStrat]

I've used pliers to hold the screw (it will get hot) and used a Dremel cut-off wheel. Depends on how much clearance you have. I've also tried to drill the head off, but that's much more difficult.

[mlp-mx6]

I don't own a Dremel, but perhaps a friend here (where I live) does.

I have a little more than 1/4" clearance, so I think I should be okay on that front, as long as the wheel doesn't run away from me and gouge the tolex.

[LeftyStrat]

I don't own a Dremel, but perhaps a friend here (where I live) does.

I have a little more than 1/4" clearance, so I think I should be okay on that front, as long as the wheel doesn't run away from me and gouge the tolex.

One other thing to try is if you have a pair of vice grips to put on the head of the nut, then a clamp to clamp the vice grip to the cab, you can pretty safely drill the head off the screw.

But this will only work with a phillips head. A slotted screw you'll just end up slipping off a damage the tolex.

[mlp-mx6]

It is a Phillips head, so I'm good there. I may be able to work this approach. Thanks for the idea, LeftyStrat!

[LeftyStrat]

It is a Phillips head, so I'm good there. I may be able to work this approach. Thanks for the idea, LeftyStrat!

Start with a small drill bit to make a pilot hole, then work up.

[mlp-mx6]

Lefty, that's just what I did and it worked a treat! Thanks. Chassis is out.

[ToneMerc]

So I'm drilling and testing the mounting holes in a new ODS cab from Taylor. I guess something gets caught in the threads of one of the screws (this is a CE chassis) and the screw locks up. So I go to back out the screw and the nut busts loose from the chassis instead. So now the amp is trapped in the cab and I cannot get the screw out. I guess I'm going to have to try to cut this stainless bolt and hope it falls in far enough that I can get the chassis out.

Any better ideas? Thanks folks.

Michael

Mike, as you found out stainless to stainless threads will gall easily. I'm not fond of the s/s captive nut and s/s bolt combo. I've thrown this out there to the CE guys that maybe a switch to steel captive nuts would be a better choice. I highly recommend that the first 3-4 threads of the mounting screw be lubricated lightly. I use a synthetic lube.

TM

[M Fowler]

Having built custom chrome and stainless street rod front axles assemblies I can relate to galled threads.

Use never seize on the threads or switch to steel.

Mark

[LeftyStrat]

Lefty, that's just what I did and it worked a treat! Thanks. Chassis is out.

Glad I could help.

[Reeltarded]

Having built custom chrome and stainless street rod front axles assemblies I can relate to galled threads.

Use never seize on the threads or switch to steel.

Mark

Ok Mark, gonna need pics of that hardware. See you bright and early with pics in the off-topic thingy!

[Structo]

For whatever reason those nuts on the CE chassis can cross thread very easily.

I had started the screws by hand when I was putting my chassis back in the cab.
I thought one felt snug but just thought it was rubbing on the cab.
So as I usually do I tightened the screws with my Makita screwgun.
WRONG!

I cross threaded a screw and it was locked so tight that when I went to unscrew it, the screw snapped off.

Eventually I was able to drill out the screw and dress the threads of the nut with a tap.

So now whenever I install the chassis back into the cab I take extra care to be sure that the screws are threading properly.