Build Complete Marshall 18W Head

[ToneMerc]

Just started another build which is a Marshall 18W head. This one is a tad different as I was never fond of that stock layout with all the flying coupling caps. This layout has all the caps on board along including the HT fuse and a cut control.

Heyboer Trannies
Stu Daddy 18W chassis & plates
JJ tubes.

TM

[Lonely Raven]

Hmm, sounds interesting!

I have an 18 watt I got second hand (not very well built) and has issues. So I'm interested in seeing what you do since I'm considering rebuilding mine from the chassis up.

[dcribbs1412]

Nice looking chassis and board TM
extra cliff jack for a footswitch?

Darin

[ToneMerc]

Nice looking chassis and board TM
extra cliff jack for a footswitch?

Darin

Thx Darin, yep for the tremolo.
TM

[ToneMerc]

lil more

[ToneMerc]

The perimeter wiring is almost done.

[ToneMerc]

A little bit closer to the finish line.

TM

[Phil_S]

Nice progress. Nice work.

One thing, just a point of curiosity really and not at all a criticism, about the placement of V3, v4, and V5, did you buy the chassis already punched?

If I were cutting the chassis, I think I'd prefer to have those sockets a bit closer the board and away from the jacks and other stuff you have on the rear face. I consistently find this to be a difficult thing to plan for. Holes get made on the outside before you start attaching parts. This is a big part of the challenge. Also, I can't see the top side. Maybe the OT get in the way, too. There are always compromises.

[ToneMerc]

Nice progress. Nice work.

One thing, just a point of curiosity really and not at all a criticism, about the placement of V3, v4, and V5, did you buy the chassis already punched?

Yep it was already punched, the tube sockets screw holes are normally indexed at 1 & 7' o'clock as well. However, $50 for a new chassis including both front and rear plates was too good of a deal to pass up.

TM

[Phil_S]

Nice progress. Nice work.

One thing, just a point of curiosity really and not at all a criticism, about the placement of V3, v4, and V5, did you buy the chassis already punched?

Yep it was already punched, the tube sockets screw holes are normally indexed at 1 & 7' o'clock as well. However, $50 for a new chassis including both front and rear plates was too good of a deal to pass up.
TM

Agreed, a great deal. Work with what you got. I realize, there should be adequate vertical space above sockets 3-5. I just don't like to sacrifice the air rights, though I often have done it. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Good luck with it.

[M Fowler]

Very nice looking build.

Mark

[ToneMerc]

Nice progress. Nice work.

One thing, just a point of curiosity really and not at all a criticism, about the placement of V3, v4, and V5, did you buy the chassis already punched?

If I were cutting the chassis, I think I'd prefer to have those sockets a bit closer the board and away from the jacks and other stuff you have on the rear face. I consistently find this to be a difficult thing to plan for. Holes get made on the outside before you start attaching parts. This is a big part of the challenge. Also, I can't see the top side. Maybe the OT get in the way, too. There are always compromises.

Phil, it's typical of the layout/spacing found in most of the 18W prefab chassis's. Here another inside view and one from topside as well. I have to install a few more resistors, tremolo oscillator caps, the nor chan input jacks and it will be done.


TM

[ToneMerc]

Ok, all done except tacking in a 125-150 cathode resistor.

TM

[Colossal]

Great job TM! What speaker will you be trying it with? Are those all carbon comps?

[ToneMerc]

Great job TM! What speaker will you be trying it with? Are those all carbon comps?

Thanks Colossal

I got lazy and half cocked the power wiring lead dressing, but overall I guess it's not too bad. I think this layout is much better that the original with those flying coupling caps and this layout has a HT fuse as well. The cut control was a last minute addition because I saw some daylight on the board. If I could do it all over gain, I would install a mini switch so that I could disconnect it.

An open back 1-12 with a Vintage 30.

Well, it's mostly all Piher CF that you see. I used Allen Bradley CC in a couple locations because I didn't want to deplete my Pihers in those values.

TM