Structo wrote:I had a look I have a 330pf on the send pot and a 270pf on the recovery.
Do you guys with the non HRM ODS amps find your tone stacks very responsive?
I play through a 2 x 12 with EVM 12L's.
I ended up lowering my slope resistor to 120K which helped just a little.
But I really don't hear as much change as I would like to hear with the TMB controls.
I would think that if I turned up the treble it would ice pick but it doesn't.
Which is strange because I played a guys Super Reverb a while back and his controls seemed to work good.
Of course those only have bass and treble.
I know the ODS tone stack is a bit different but it is mostly like a Fender.
The controls on my Rocket seem to function good.
Trying different value slope resistors to increase the range in an amp with a 250k mid pot is like throwing a brick in the grand canyon.. Pretty much...This is the main reason why the bass and Treble controls don't have the range of a Fender w/25K Mid control
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
The mid pot is just a variable resistor to ground. It has ZERO effect on tone. The 250K pot is needed to get certain sounds with the .01uf midcap. That is all..... Look elsewhere if you feel like tweaking.
Structo wrote:So what are you saying?
I should lower my mid pot value?
The stock D'lite has a 100K mid pot.
I changed this to 250K after being advised to do so here.
I see the #40 has a 100K slope resistor with a 250K mid pot.
hitchcaster wrote:you could also make sure your internal shielded wire in the dumbleator is good quality/ low pf... also, ive had instances where the insulation melted a bit and didn't cause a short, but was shorting SOME highs to ground... you really shouldn't have to mod this thing to get it to work right IMHO. good luck though
Yes but several other members have said they had to tweak it for more transparency.
All the shielded cable in my amp and loop is the silver plated Teflon stuff from Apex Jr.
I believe it is very high quality shielded cable.
I never measured it for capacitance.
I believe it is 18 ga center because he was out of the 20 ga.
So no, it solders very nicely with no melting.
Somebody mentioned before that it was on the high side pf/ft so I don't know.
dogears wrote:The mid pot is just a variable resistor to ground. It has ZERO effect on tone. The 250K pot is needed to get certain sounds with the .01uf midcap. That is all..... Look elsewhere if you feel like tweaking.
Structo wrote:So what are you saying?
I should lower my mid pot value?
The stock D'lite has a 100K mid pot.
I changed this to 250K after being advised to do so here.
I see the #40 has a 100K slope resistor with a 250K mid pot.
Scott
No doubt.. My reference was aimed more tword the other end of the pot 250k.. IMO the higher value gives you the extended range but comes with a price... the greater the lift the less range you get from the bass and treble controls as you increase..(enter the jazz if you want scooped)I agree a BIG part of the D-Tone (especially the OD) and should be left alone..As long as it delivers who cares about limited range ....Could somebody please make a TS calculator for the skyline..
Tony
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
I changed the resistor in the D'lator to 10K and was able to turn up the amp yesterday and give it a listen.
Much better although there is a bit of fizz!
So I may increase it just a little bit to smooth it a little.
if you're gigging all the time with the loop in like i do, that resistor, the master byp cap, and the od bleed cap will det the fizz value. adj to taste--
butwhatif wrote:if you're gigging all the time with the loop in like i do, that resistor, the master byp cap, and the od bleed cap will det the fizz value. adj to taste--
Lets see if I understand what you wrote.
Is the master bypass cap you refer to, the 47uF bypass on the recovery amp of the loop?
The OD bleed cap. Is that the treble bleed circuit some add to their amp.
The one that Gil Ayan came up with?
no way to tell what your rig sounds like, how u play, gtrs, etc but i think too much briteness wrecks it. took many gigs for me to adjust mine, but now i leave it alone, as it works for many rooms, gigs etc.
butwhatif wrote:if u use the loop, and then bybass the loop and there's a vast difference, it makes for an even more convoluted tonequest. last thing i want is a loop that is not flat, and if you put a sq wave thru the loop as we know it, you'll see the rolloff. and if you investigate further you will find that the 220k return grid resistor is the major factor in this. i think 47k is in mine.
When this resistor is bypassed with a 500pF cap, high freq will pass.
Together with NFB you can change the knee were the high freq roll off do it's work.
In other words: I think the NFB does more in high freq roll-off then the grid resistor with a 500pF cap.
Plz correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the way I understand the recovery part of a dlator.
I tried to figure out the math for figuring the frequency response or knee frequency of the 220K/250pf and the Local NFB loop.
Not having much luck.
I noticed that this LNFB uses half the values of the one in the ODS amp on CL2.
When lowering the resistance of the grid filter, I was wondering if I needed to change the value of the 500pf cap as well.
I know it is an RC thing, but for now I just left it at 500pf.
