Roller Nuts

[sepulchre]

I have an Am. Deluxe Strat with a roller nut on it. Next to a Floyd I can't imagine anything staying in tune better - it's Great! So I got one for another Strat I have, but I have a question about installing it.

The roller nut is wider than the original so the slot will have to be widened. There is apparently some debate as which direction to cut it wider; toward the frets (leading edge) or toward the tuners (trailing). My thought is that the point where the strings hit the bearings should be at the same point where they are now hitting the original nut, at its leading edge. To do so I may have to cut both sides of the slot. But it might not be as critical as all that and simply adjusting the intonation will compensate.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Also, any tips on the best way to make the cuts would be appreciated. I certainly don't want to butcher my axe.

[randalp3000]

Towards the frets. You can tweak it for intonation also.

[Jana]

You widen the slot toward the frets. But, you need to be precise--you can't expect the intonations to fix any errors. If it is off, then it will be near impossible to get fretted notes to be in tune with open notes. Setting the intonations to try to fix that will just mean that either the fretted notes are correct or the open note and 12th fret will be okay.

There should be some instructions that came with it. Is it an LSR? Go to the Fender site or maybe it is Warmoth where I have seen instructions.

[sepulchre]

First, thx for the replies. I can use all the help I can get (generally speaking).

It came with instructions showing the exact dimensions and how much to cut. I'm not a terrible craftsman and I think (hope) I can get pretty close. So I'll go toward the frets and hope my little saw stays true. I don't have one of those fancy Asian blades but my hand is fairly steady so here we go . .

I'll report the results.

Thanks again!

[Cantplay]

Take the time to cut a piece of wood to clamp to the fretboard as a saw guide.

Rest the saw against the guide and cut. carefully chisel out the cut piece in layers. cut it a little short and file to size. If you cut it too far you'll have to shim and epoxy to fix it.

John

[sepulchre]

Sounds like good advice, John. I gotta say, reading the instructions made me wonder with their "Don't Do This if You're Not a Luthier" lines. Yeah, well I might just be one . . . just not yet. But you have to start somewhere, so . . .

Actually, what you're saying is the key: Go Slow, Prepare, Cut Short, and so on. Sounds like a plan I can do. Making a guide board is definitely the way to go for a couple of reasons. I think the radius is 9.5" and I can easily make a cut like that with a router so the guide board will fit right.

So I'll say much obliged and get to work. Stay warm!

[Structo]

Are those nuts radiused?

I ask because some Fender necks have a flat nut slot while others have a radius.

[randalp3000]

Are those nuts radiused?

I ask because some Fender necks have a flat nut slot while others have a radius.

I think they're 12" radius to match modern fenders

[Structo]

I think if it were me, I would measure with the original nut installed and measure the edge closest to the frets to the first fret.

Then check the contact point on the roller and make it the same distance from the first fret.

[jestaudio]

I,ve fitted half a dozen of these now, if you remove the original nut, take the measurement for the offset from the front of the slot, and scribe a line in the fret board as a guide its not to hard, I find a little white chalk in the scribed line works well, razor saw to cut the board or a small dremel based router if you fancy making a jig, take your time and go steady its not that hard to do

[sepulchre]

Are those nuts radiused?

I ask because some Fender necks have a flat nut slot while others have a radius.

No it's flat (fortunately). But I will make a guide board that clamps onto the fretboard. The guide board needs to be radiused to fit the fretboard.

I think that cutting toward the frets will put the contact point at the same place as the original. But taking measurements will make sure.

[sepulchre]

The radius on this fretboard is 9.5" (I thought so but checked the specs to be sure). So that's how I'll make the guide board.

@jestaudio: I was going to try it with a small coping saw sort of deal. The other saws I'd seen were Very expensive Japanese things that looked like a Samurai should be wielding them. But seeing your post, I looked up "razor saw" and found I can get one at the local hardware store. So thanks a bunch for the info and for the encouragement.

Thanks to all of you for your ideas and info. Much obliged!

[Bob S]

Good info guys - Thank You !
I installed one in a strat neck a few years ago.
Also some fancy saddles & locking tuners.
Must admit you can beat it with a stick & it stays in tune.
Did this back when I thought I knew what I was doing.
I'll look at it carefully next time I get it out for an airing.
Maybe I was lucky.

[martin manning]

I think the larger size X-acto razor saw would be a good choice. They are cheap and you can get one at a hobby or craft store. You'll have to make two cuts: one at the peghead side of the existing slot to deepen it, and another through the fingerboard to widen it. A jig such as discussed will insure that the slot walls are perpendicular to the surface of the fingerboard as well as to the long axis of the neck (provided you clamp it straight both times). I'd make a template (below) to mark both sides of the neck to get the depth right, and then level the bottom of the slot with a narrow chisel.

[sepulchre]

Good idea, Martin. I can make such a template and attach it to the guide board. My best rulers has divisions of 100ths of an inch. I hope that will be good enough.

The nut came with some shims but I hope they are not necessary. I will cut it to 0.100 and go from there.