Need a speaker idea

[Luthierwnc]

Hi Guys;

I'm working on the winter project (only one this year). It will probably be an American sounding amp based on a 5F6-A for one channel and either reverb or a pentode driven 2nd channel feeding the bottom of the inverter. The power section will be either a quad of 6v6's or a pair of 5881's, fixed bias, paper-in-oil couplers and tube rectified.

1X12 combo

I'm trying to figure what speaker would be a good match. I'd like it to stay fairly clean until pushed and definately not have a British mid-scoop. The possibility list includes; SRO, Alnico California, Altec 417, Cannabis Rex (which I have in a DR clone) and a Tone Tubby. When possible, I like to have plenty of wattage capacity to spare.

Prolly play a slightly hotter than stock Tele but I have the usual choices as well. This will be for rock/blues. I've got a couple Dumbles and one of most everything else for everything else.

Even though I named some massive speakers, it wouldn't be all bad if this wasn't too heavy. If you have some experience with neo's in this kind of rig, I'd like to hear that too.

Thanks for looking, Skip

[muchxs]

I'm working on the winter project (only one this year). It will probably be an American sounding amp based on a 5F6-A for one channel and either reverb or a pentode driven 2nd channel feeding the bottom of the inverter. The power section will be either a quad of 6v6's or a pair of 5881's, fixed bias, paper-in-oil couplers and tube rectified.

What are you using for a chassis?

A repro Deluxe Reverb works well for this kind of thing. Wire the "normal" channel as your 5F6 pre, use the reverb channel for the other side. There's enough real estate available that perhaps you can wire a third channel for your EF86.

I'm trying to figure what speaker would be a good match. I'd like it to stay fairly clean until pushed and definately not have a British mid-scoop. The possibility list includes; SRO, Alnico California, Altec 417, Cannabis Rex (which I have in a DR clone) and a Tone Tubby. When possible, I like to have plenty of wattage capacity to spare.

None of the above?

My two favorites from your list would be the California and the Cannabis Rex. The California will give you that big clean "'60s Fender with JBL" tone. The hemp cone will be smoother. If you have all the speakers on your list available swap around and hear for yourself.

[Luthierwnc]

The chassis will be a donor. The market has really fallen out of the "project" electronics category. A lot of those "one of these days" builds are showing up in auctions. Organs are especially good for stuff like this.

The main objective of this speaker is to hold clean but still warm to about 6/10 on the volume. After that, the amp will distort a lot by itself and all bets are off.

My noodlings right now have a 59 Bassman style circuit with a couple coupling and bypass tweaks and an Ampeg-style reverb coming off the cathode follower and reinserting on the bottom of the PI. Tim Gagan's Ultimate Gregory had something similar except this won't have the extra gain stage after the tone-stack. To compensate, the Ampeg driver eliminates the extra phase shift.

The design will change many times between now and then. Keep those comments and questions coming,

sh

[muchxs]

The chassis will be a donor. The market has really fallen out of the "project" electronics category. A lot of those "one of these days" builds are showing up in auctions. Organs are especially good for stuff like this.

I agree. I take it one step further, if I use a donor amp I re-package the parts in a repro or custom chassis. It saves a lot of hassle with junk that wasn't designed to do what it ends up doing. I get custom work all the time where the builder didn't give any thought to packaging the finished product.

The main objective of this speaker is to hold clean but still warm to about 6/10 on the volume. After that, the amp will distort a lot by itself and all bets are off.

Every speaker in your stash will do that. The Tone Tubby or the Cannabis Rex should be the warmest of the lot.

My noodlings right now have a 59 Bassman style circuit with a couple coupling and bypass tweaks and an Ampeg-style reverb coming off the cathode follower and reinserting on the bottom of the PI. Tim Gagan's Ultimate Gregory had something similar except this won't have the extra gain stage after the tone-stack. To compensate, the Ampeg driver eliminates the extra phase shift.

Why not just clone the entire Ampeg? Early Reverberockets with 6SL7s and 7591s are cool amps. They're cool enough that the prices are starting to get out of reach.

[skyboltone]

Skip,
Didn't you build a cathode biased 7591 amp a couple of years ago? I don't think you ever wrote that up. How did it work out? I've got some Hammond Organ iron in that class, 340-0-340 and 8800 primary OT. I suppose I might could use 5881s/EL-34s and a 4 ohm cab too.

By the way, I've got a 16 ohm 417 no suffix, paper dust cover I might part with. Trade for woodwork? Spray my Tele? Also a 417-8C.

[Luthierwnc]

Hey Dan;

Yeah, it was an HRM with a switchable fixed/cathode bias using 7591's. I had a JJ red-plate at a jam and went to 5881's for a more reliable tube. Nice sounding amp but god-awful heavy with a Swamp Thang 1X12 combo. JTM45 iron. It got a pretty complete write-up at the time. Search the Dumble files under "hybrid" for a thread I started.

Eventually I put in a beefier PT, totem power section, made the cathode switch a choke/Ford switch, chopped it into a head and slapped in a pair of JJ KT77's (so, back to JJ's). Built-in D-lator. Absolutely killer amp. Use it over the G12-65 and a heavy magnet Scumback. It is the one on the bottom right. The one next to it is the non-HRM. Decisions, decisions.

PM me with wood needs. I can't spray stuff anymore because my wife is seriously allergic to my favorite toxic chemicals. Might save some of my brain cells too. All my acoustics are getting French polish anymore.

Skip