K60 layout - split load switch

[arjepsen]

Hey guys.
I'm still waiting for the transformers from Heyboer, so I still fiddle around with the layout on this one.
I really didn't like the idea of DC on the switch, and doing some searching here, I realized others made various solutions for it.
I haven't done something like this arrangement before, so I wonder what you guys think about the way I've drawn it up?

Also, I was wondering about whether I should try to do something with the extra triode.
I could try to do a parallel first stage, - maybe one input with one stage, another input with parallel?
but I imagine the amp already has plenty of gain...

Regards
Anders

[Stevem]

No schematic, I hate looking at diagrams like these, it takes twice as long to figure stuff out!

[arjepsen]

Sorry - didn't mean to provoke any annoyance
Here's a quick schematic I drew up of it.

[Stevem]

If you use a slow start recto like a 5AR4 you do not even need a Standby switch, but if you want one do as I do, use a DPST switch using both sides and they last for 20 years!
Just be sure to wire it in after the first bank of filters.

Unless you need metal rock gain levels those 3 stages you have will give plenty of gain, so I might play around with halving the values of your first gain stage plate and Cathode resistors and running the Triodes parallel.

If you do not have the 80@450 filters yet, I would up the first stack of them to 100 uf, but you only need to pay for 350 volt filters, 450 is overkill!

[arjepsen]

If you use a slow start recto like a 5AR4 you do not even need a Standby switch, but if you want one do as I do, use a DPST switch using both sides and they last for 20 years!
Just be sure to wire it in after the first bank of filters.

Unless you need metal rock gain levels those 3 stages you have will give plenty of gain, so I might play around with halving the values of your first gain stage plate and Cathode resistors and running the Triodes parallel.

If you do not have the 80@450 filters yet, I would up the first stack of them to 100 uf, but you only need to pay for 350 volt filters, 450 is overkill!

Thanks for the suggestions.
I've read enough posts about standby switches to feel safe about leaving it out entirely.
Good thought on the parallel triode - I'll probably try that out, and see what it does to the sound. Pretty quick to change.

Anyway, my main focus right now is the old fast/gradual switch that in originally had DC on it. It should be a relatively noise sensitive area, so I wonder what people might think about my layout of the switch, put _after_ the coupling cap.

[pompeiisneaks]

If you use a slow start recto like a 5AR4 you do not even need a Standby switch, but if you want one do as I do, use a DPST switch using both sides and they last for 20 years!
Just be sure to wire it in after the first bank of filters.

Actually if you use a solid state rectifier, you can skip a standby switch The whole 'cathode stripping' thing is a myth for audio level tube use. It can only happen at over 1000 volts and only for very specific really expensive non used tubes. ;P

~Phil

[Stevem]

It may be so, but the switch is a easy way to discharge the power supply when working on the amp, and to me it's worth it just for that useage!