My Fluke Just Flaked

[David Root]

Fluke 187. The Ohms range just opened up, no reading on crossed probes, or anything else for that matter. Everything else works normally.

Not under warranty, unfortunately. And no I wasn't trying to measure resistance in a live circuit.

What could be the problem?

[sliberty]

Look for an internal blown fuse just in case the meter itself is actually fine.

[Blackburn]

Sorry to hear. Hopefully it's an easy fix.

I've got the 115 and notice it's really finicky when reading just about anything. I almost have to scratch a lead or eyelet with the test lead just to get the reading to stabilize. After rubbing metal on metal a bit, it usual stays, but I can clearly be making good contact with it and it won't measure real well. Do I need to clean the test lead or something??

[shoggoth]

I almost have to scratch a lead or eyelet with the test lead just to get the reading to stabilize.

Maybe flux from the solder?

[Zippy]

Fluke 187. The Ohms range just opened up, no reading on crossed probes, or anything else for that matter. Everything else works normally.

Not under warranty, unfortunately. And no I wasn't trying to measure resistance in a live circuit.

What could be the problem?

Have you changed the battery lately? It might be time.

[David Root]

Lo battery indicator not showing. If the fuse was blown nothing would work I think. I'll check it anyway.

It gets worse. Now the capacitance range has died too.

Fortunately I have a good LCR meter that will hold me until I can get the Fluke fixed. It's only five or six years old IIRC.

Woooo! Checked Fluke Service Online. $212.00 +tax for any/all repairs, plus I have to ship it 2500 miles from Vancouver to Toronto. Eeesh! For $200 I can get a pretty good brand new DMM.

Need a backup for running tests on live amps. Any suggestions for autoranging with capacitance too? Maybe $100.

Edit--Forgot I have an old Meterman that will do for AC & DC until I can get the Fluke fixed. Had to change the battery, and it's not autoranging which is a PITA.

[Blackburn]

I almost have to scratch a lead or eyelet with the test lead just to get the reading to stabilize.

Maybe flux from the solder?

That's a good point. It's possible. It hasn't kept me from being able to actually measure voltages, just a pain in the ass. Actually, now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I've measured from un soldered areas on the lugs of octal sockets. Who knows? Guess it doesn't really matter.

[Masco]

I believe only the amps measurement(s) circuit would be fused in a Fluke. Maybe the rotary switch is dirty/has an open? Check for battery corrosion. Sometimes the large IC needs touch-up w/ solder. Try flux pen and hot air/re-flow.

[David Root]

Now I think of it, that's right. There is a smaller fuse and a 10A fuse. The smaller one is good. I checked the batteries and they are good.

How do you check the switch? I don't have the capability to reflow ICs, I'm sure I would screw that up and there goes $350, what I paid for it new.

[David Root]

Just before I packed up the meter to send it back to Fluke Service for its $212 repair, I decided to check the probes for continuity.

Ta da! Red one was open, black one varied 1-5 ohms. I replaced them with the pair from my backup Meterman and the Fluke now works fine.

A lesson learned!!

[vibratoking]

Congrats on catching it before you shipped it. I almost asked if you checked the probes, but I just knew you had.

[Zippy]

Just before I packed up the meter to send it back to Fluke Service for its $212 repair, I decided to check the probes for continuity.

Ta da! Red one was open, black one varied 1-5 ohms. I replaced them with the pair from my backup Meterman and the Fluke now works fine.

A lesson learned!!

<groan>

Good stuff. We recently had a safety notice shared at work when an electrician failed to check his voltmeter after testing a circuit "de-energized". There's more than one reason that the voltage could read "0V" - sometimes it the probes!

Congrats on the troubleshooting, David! How's it sound?

FWIW, some volt-ohmmeters use different batteries for the various ranges and functions. Resistance, in particular, is read by putting a voltage across the element - low or dead battery >> bad resistance reading.

"If it works, it's a Fluke!" - my grad advisor's favorite quip.

[Masco]

Now I think of it, that's right. There is a smaller fuse and a 10A fuse. The smaller one is good. I checked the batteries and they are good.

How do you check the switch? I don't have the capability to reflow ICs, I'm sure I would screw that up and there goes $350, what I paid for it new.

Classic

Yup, one fuse is for mA, one for Amps.
You can gently pull on the meter leads and the rubbery insulation will stretch at the point of the open.

[Cliff Schecht]

Good stuff David! One of the probes I use has continuity issues so I have to mash the cord to get it to read. Still works, just annoying (and dangerous at times) when working with really high voltages.

[Bob S]

Had the same thing happen to one of the probe cords on my old dual scope.
I was convinced it was the scope - the probes were newish.
Turns out I'd pinched one of the leads.
Flukes work.
I've had a couple stolen & ended up buying another.
I've got a couple of off brand dmm's.
Just in case...