Thanks for all of the kind words guys!
@Reeltarded:It's nothing special so don't be misled. It's just a Rocket basically. The caps are just located where they are being used and all grounds for that node are returned to the (-) side of the cap.
@Xtian: Will do.
@Aleksander: Thanks! Yes, I prefer a robust power supply and I don't want to have to worry about an amp coming back in for a cap job.
@Cliff: I don't swing that way, but I'm flattered you'd ask
@Martin: Vanity plate and faceplates are laser engraved (see attached closeup. The grill/valences were cut from aircraft aluminum on a water jet and powder coated. The plate is rear lit and there is a small cavity in the front grill only in which I put an LED array to back-light the logo.
@AmpMike, Koop, Mark, StephenNL: Thanks guys, you are very kind.
@RP: Yes, polypropylene caps are huge for sure and they do require a lot of space in the chassis. I used a 2.5" high chassis and there are millimeters to spare for the reservoir and screen caps. I do like the sound of them. I do think you will notice the difference and for the better. The 5E3 with its flabby PI might benefit from this. These do not make an amp sterile as some naysayers insist. I think this bias might come from guys that are playing old, tired amps and have just forgotten what clarity is.
@ JazzGuitarGimp
Yes, they can be expensive. There is no right or wrong answer, only personal choice: how do you price your time, reputation, and amp's tone and performance? A client is not going to know the difference in caps but they will know the difference in sound. If there is a failure, that could have an unintentional consequence to your reputation as a boutique builder. In the scheme of things, yes, the premium of a film cap will affect the bottom line but I value the return on that investment.
@RP, Structo et al
In regards to film caps in the power supply...
I like them because:
1) They are available in voltage ratings that far exceed those experienced in a typical tube guitar amp. I want to make sure anything that I build has a better chance than any commercially available product of avoiding failure and premature maintenance. I don't want voltage transients at startup to fatigue the caps over time.
2) They are non polarized and have very low ESR. This results in a faster attack and recovery although to my ear this is not a bad thing. This extends the clarity of the low end and that is something I want for my own playing as I like absolute clarity and separation and I play 7 strings with a low B and 6 strings often tuned to Drop-D. Electrolytics can have ill-defined, muddy, low end. When I play a wide interval chord, say 1-5-9-add #11, I want it to sound like somebody hit a wrought iron fence with a bat. Grrrr....runngggg...gggggg
3) Precision for a film cap is typically 5-10% compared to an electrolytic which is often -10% to +50% of nominal. When I buy a 40uF cap, I don't want it measuring 52uF. I value precision and select parts accordingly. If I build the same amp twice with the same parts throughout, I want them to sound as close as possible.
4) As Aleksander mentioned, these are not going to wear out any time soon. The up front cost is higher, but the peace of mind and performance that brings is worth the premium to me. YMMV.
5) We have seen some electrolytics take a dive in quality. Look at the current issue ATOM caps. Big can, tiny tootsie roll of a cap inside. Also, there has been some counterfeiting or putting a 20uF cap in a 40uF enclosure (!) which may or may not be a big deal any more. I prefer to avoid electrolytics any where I can for their lower resolution. That said, I used some Sprague ATOM 22uF 25V caps in the preamp for cathode bypass.
Just some thoughts,
Dave
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
