New 2204 build

[Deric]

Just finished a 2204 build for my Brother in Law. Started as a straight up 2204 with MCI iron from Triode. Added the Metro loop, LarMar MV and did a little bit of tweaking with help and info at the Metro forum. Still pretty close to stock. Did add diodes to the volume pot. A pair of back to back 1n4007 in series with 2 5v zeners. Didn't think I'd like it but it's pretty cool. The diodes just add a bit of compression and smooth out the top end a touch. So far I'm just tweaking based on e-mails and clips of his band. I've never actually met him..... I'm going to deliver the amp in person - he lives in Anchorage. Should be cool...haven't been up there in 30 years.

Anyone ever "carry-on'" an amp head when flying? I'm going via Alaskan. From everything I can find on their website it should be OK to carry it on. Dimensionally it should be OK and I can't find a weight limit anywhere......

Anyways, here's some pics. Faceplate from Amplates.com. Cab from my freind Bret King at Anders Engraving. Chassis and turret board from turretboards.com. Hack tolex job by me..... Thanks to Taylor ( amplifiednation here at AmpGarage ) for the tips!!!! The Wilsonart H2O glue really is the bomb! And as always, thanks to all the guys at the AmpGarage for all the help and info and getting me hooked on this shit in the first place!!

[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/AFB%2050/th_AFB50031.jpg[/img]
[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/AFB%2050/th_AFB50030.jpg[/img]
[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/AFB%2050/th_AFB50032.jpg[/img]

and guts....

[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/AFB%2050/th_AFB50019.jpg[/img]
[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/AFB%2050/th_AFB50012.jpg[/img]

[M Fowler]

That amp looks great and he should be very happy with it.

I built one using MC iron and my customer loves his.

Mark

[Ken Moon]

Looks great!

Is that the Alumamark laser-markable aluminum used on the faceplate?

It looks like you got good contrast from the silver background to the black letters - when BNP first started carrying the silver Alumamark, they steered me away from it, but if that's what's on yours, it looks very nice.

I'd like to hear any impressions you have on the effects loop, too - everbody on the Metro forum likes them, and it sure is an easy solution.

[surfsup]

Hackjob? Geezus man, that looks great!!!

Diodes on the vol pot? Care to elaborate?

[Deric]

Mark - Thanks!

Ken - It's not Alumark. It's just the plastic "brushed silver" with black letters. The loop works great.

Surfsup - I used a pair of 1n4007's and a pair of 5v zeners on the "pre-amp" volume wired like this...

[M Fowler]

The only trouble with aluma-mark is the fragile nature bends easy.

[ampmike]

Deric,That amp is STUNNING!!!I wish I had a brother in law like you.What a surprise that is going to be.Amps are the true gift that keeps on giving.Good Luck Bro,Have a grat trip,Mikey

[Lonely Raven]

What a great looking amp!

I don't get the diode thing though. I'll have to research it more.

[Structo]

Wow, that looks great Deric!

Nice clean build and the front of that cab looks cool.

How the heck did you get the tolex to stretch into the logo?

Front panel looks pro.

Wiring looks pro.

Somebody is going to be very happy.

[Deric]

Thanks alot guys!

This was a fun build. Layout got a little tight in the small-ish chassis ( 20" x 6.5" x 2.5" )but it worked out OK with only a couple of extra holes.... It's dead quiet which is always nice.

Tom - The tolex in the logo was actually easier than I thought it would be. I've done it once before using the glue AES sells but the Wilsonart H2O works much better. Applied glue to both pieces and let dry completely. Warmed up the tolex with a hair dryer and started working it into the letters. Used the butt end of a Sharpie to persuade it a little. Stuck really good the first time but I still took the Sharpie to it every half hour or so for a couple of hours just in case.

[Reeltarded]

What a great looking amp!

I don't get the diode thing though. I'll have to research it more.

It's a clipping network. I make up patch cables with new mixes of diodes and insert them in loops.

Once the voltage reaches the gate (-/+) pow... distortion.

I use 1n914s in my little Egnater on the second gain stage (because that is where I can reach) Randall used them in my favorite not a tube amp.

When it's gained to about 50% on the pre, it works like a good Fender Deluxe at about 70% volume. When it's gained @ 80% it sounds like an AC30 about to catch fire on a Queen record. When it's wide open, it sounds like 80s metal.

There is no clean sound.

[xtian]

I make up patch cables with new mixes of diodes and insert them in loops.

Wow! Crazy idea, man. Can you draw me one? I've got some stray diodes around.

[surfsup]

Why even have the 1N4007s if one will let current through all the time? Seems pointless to me to even have both since current will flow all the time through the other one.

EDIT, well I guess I can see the need for one diode to prevent any feedback if that could somehow happen to cause hum or something so at least leave the original one in there with both Zeners after it.

I now know what a Zener does for the other two, at first I thought nothing would flow. thanks.

[amplifiednation]

Thanks alot guys!

This was a fun build. Layout got a little tight in the small-ish chassis ( 20" x 6.5" x 2.5" )but it worked out OK with only a couple of extra holes.... It's dead quiet which is always nice.

Tom - The tolex in the logo was actually easier than I thought it would be. I've done it once before using the glue AES sells but the Wilsonart H2O works much better. Applied glue to both pieces and let dry completely. Warmed up the tolex with a hair dryer and started working it into the letters. Used the butt end of a Sharpie to persuade it a little. Stuck really good the first time but I still took the Sharpie to it every half hour or so for a couple of hours just in case.

There goes my secret....haha. Great job Deric. I love the letters!

[Reeltarded]

I make up patch cables with new mixes of diodes and insert them in loops.

Wow! Crazy idea, man. Can you draw me one? I've got some stray diodes around.

Open up a common every day 1/4" plug.

Put shink tube on two diodes.

One solders cathode (dot) to hot, anode to ground.

One solders cathode (dot) to ground, anode to hot.

(b) As shown above, you can make them in reversed series, solder both anodes to hot, and ground with the cathodes back to back.

Fold them into the middle of the pins, heat the shrink, and screw it back together.

Opposing diode clipping network patch cable complete.

If you use a distortion unit with enough gunk in front of your amp, try this cable as the amp input cable after your pedals too, turn up the output on the pedal, turn the drive down on the pedal, and sing along.

Randall used opposing 1n914s. That is still my favortie combo, but you might find a germanium type is more to your liking in a realistic way, kinda blue sounding.