I have an Accutronics 2 spring tank from a junked solid state amp. It has the following numbers. 1BB3C1A AND - 79 217 01(?) 81 142 92.
In Good shape.
I am wondering if this will work on a Rocket reverb add on build.
Best Ange
PS I can post a pic if necessary.
Reverb tank for Rocket Build.
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: Reverb tank for Rocket Build.
The part number decodes to:
reverb type: two spring small
input Z: 150ohm
output Z: 2250 ohm
decay: short
connectors: insulated
mounting: horizontal open side up.
http://roymal.tripod.com/accutron.htm
It seems it would work if you modeled your circuit to the Ampeg type C capacitor driven reverb. It won't work on a standard transformer driven Fender type circuit.
reverb type: two spring small
input Z: 150ohm
output Z: 2250 ohm
decay: short
connectors: insulated
mounting: horizontal open side up.
http://roymal.tripod.com/accutron.htm
It seems it would work if you modeled your circuit to the Ampeg type C capacitor driven reverb. It won't work on a standard transformer driven Fender type circuit.
- David Root
- Posts: 3540
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:00 pm
- Location: Chilliwack BC
Re: Reverb tank for Rocket Build.
Lot of folks like the Ampeg reverb tone. Look it up, talk to some people. Might save you some money, too (no rvb driver transformer).
Re: Reverb tank for Rocket Build.
Accutronics 8AB2A1B, short tank, medium decay
Hammond 1750A reverb driver
Works well for the Rocket you could go for more decay (long) for more pronounced reverb.
Also, the reverb section that Red Plate posted is a good choice love it in my Red Plate Black Verb Basic.
Hammond 1750A reverb driver
Works well for the Rocket you could go for more decay (long) for more pronounced reverb.
Also, the reverb section that Red Plate posted is a good choice love it in my Red Plate Black Verb Basic.
- David Root
- Posts: 3540
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 3:00 pm
- Location: Chilliwack BC
How does the Ampeg C Work?
Like quahog said, it is capacitor driven instead of transformer driven. Here's a good write-up from the Guild site.
Post subject: Guild Reverb ... Which Way Is Best? Boingy Boingy ...Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:21 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:37 am
Posts: 11209
Location: FL This is a study in the several methods Guild used in its '60s amps to generate the boingy boingy ... on-board reverb. Like Gibson, Fender, and Ampeg, Guild too produced a stand-along reverb unit; the RC20 which was modeled after the Gibson GA1RT; same tube lineup except with a solid state rectifier but this is a look at onboard reverb and specifically the several methods that were and are possible to couple the reverb tank to the electronic stage that is sending it a signal to be 'verbed.
There are two requirements; that the coupling device get rid of any DC so it doesn't appear at the input of the reverb can and matching the impedance of the reverb can with the internal impedance of the signal source; in the case of tube amps, the tube 1/2 that is 'sending' the signal. There are three ways to couple the tube section to the can; with a capacitor, transformer, or a speaker. In its '60s designs, Ampeg chose a capacitor ... shown in the red circle below and the reverb can in the blue box; two very successful Ampeg designs below (the dotted green circle on the left is the center third of a 6U10 tube - a three-section tube used almost exclusively by Ampeg):
(See attached schematics)
The capacitor blocks the DC from the tube from appearing at the input of the reverb can and Ampeg specified reverb cans with about 2.5K input resistance which approximates the internal impedance of most signal tubes in common use (the resistance is set by the transducers that connect the can's wiring to the springs)
Fender and Gibson went a different route; they both use transformers to 'couple' the sending tube half to the reverb can. The transformer saves the cost of a capacitor because it blocks the DC and the secondary side of the transformer is 8 ohms .. the nominal input impedance of most reverb cans.
Post subject: Guild Reverb ... Which Way Is Best? Boingy Boingy ...Posted: Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:21 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:37 am
Posts: 11209
Location: FL This is a study in the several methods Guild used in its '60s amps to generate the boingy boingy ... on-board reverb. Like Gibson, Fender, and Ampeg, Guild too produced a stand-along reverb unit; the RC20 which was modeled after the Gibson GA1RT; same tube lineup except with a solid state rectifier but this is a look at onboard reverb and specifically the several methods that were and are possible to couple the reverb tank to the electronic stage that is sending it a signal to be 'verbed.
There are two requirements; that the coupling device get rid of any DC so it doesn't appear at the input of the reverb can and matching the impedance of the reverb can with the internal impedance of the signal source; in the case of tube amps, the tube 1/2 that is 'sending' the signal. There are three ways to couple the tube section to the can; with a capacitor, transformer, or a speaker. In its '60s designs, Ampeg chose a capacitor ... shown in the red circle below and the reverb can in the blue box; two very successful Ampeg designs below (the dotted green circle on the left is the center third of a 6U10 tube - a three-section tube used almost exclusively by Ampeg):
(See attached schematics)
The capacitor blocks the DC from the tube from appearing at the input of the reverb can and Ampeg specified reverb cans with about 2.5K input resistance which approximates the internal impedance of most signal tubes in common use (the resistance is set by the transducers that connect the can's wiring to the springs)
Fender and Gibson went a different route; they both use transformers to 'couple' the sending tube half to the reverb can. The transformer saves the cost of a capacitor because it blocks the DC and the secondary side of the transformer is 8 ohms .. the nominal input impedance of most reverb cans.
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