David Root wrote:I have heard that Keef uses Celestions of some kind in his 5F8s, but that's a bit different amp. Is a Celestion suitable for this amp and if so which one(s). Maybe G12-65s?
I read more than once that it's Mesa/Celestion MC90 for Keef. There's a you tube vid of his backline
David Root wrote:Got these off EBay today. Guy wants $9K for it! As you can see all of the electrolytics have been replaced at one time or another, no surprise there.
But a 500uF cap on the bias supply????.
Note also the 470R 1W screen resistors, can't tell if they are original or not, they are not in the Fender schematic or layout. I'm going to put those in mine.
As I thought from the layout dwg., the 250pF treble cap is a domino silver mica type. The 47 pF ceramic cap in the layout is clearly visible too here.
But what is that connected between the plate and cathode of the PI stage?? Looks like it might be two tiny domino caps in parallel. I know Fender used a 47pF cap across the plates of an LTP PI to kill parasitics, would this be the same deal here, even though this is a simple split load PI?
Hi,
I don't know if this will help by comparison, a 56 Twin.
Best Regards,
Steve
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Thanx for those pics! They have angles mine don't. I think I can see the edge of the rubber tube socket O-rings, or did I imagine that?
If that one is yours, how do you like the 6L6GAs in it? I'm going to roll pairs of Ken-Rad VT-115A 6L6G, National Union 6L6GAY, Sylvania 6L6GA and (original) Tung-Sol 5881 in mine. And Tung-Sol 5U4GBs.
Started on my 5E8A build and put in rubber grommets on the preamp tube sockets. See pix below. I have no idea if Fender did it this way but it seems to work. The grommet is Mouser part # 534-730. I think it is Keystone P/N 730. Buna-N (nitrile) synthetic rubber which is heat resistant.
The grommets need a 3/16" dia chassis hole so I had to drill out the standard holes to 3/16". The ID comfortably fits a #4-40 x 3/8" machine screw. Tightened up a 4-40 keps nut on the other side, not too tight but I think enough for the nut's toothed washer to grip the rubber securely. I might put a flat locknut on it to hold it.
If it works to cut microphonics it would be useable on any build I think, so here it is FWIW.
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