LOUDthud wrote: ↑Fri Dec 13, 2024 9:45 pm
The bleeder in lonote's post won't discharge the filter caps unless the Standby Switch is left in the Play position. Better to move it to the other side of the Standby.
Good point!
I failed to mention that, as I am not a standby switch guy & didn't think of it.
Got some stuff done over the weekend to include some chassis drilling.
Also learned that turret board is a more “3 dimensional” platform than eyelet board and that I need to have a plan for components regarding turret or eyelet space before making the board - but it all worked out and I learned some things I didn’t know previously - which I find rewarding in itself.
IMG_0392.jpeg
IMG_0393.jpeg
Still thinking about the master volume as well. Hoping I can get “edge of break-up” at a reasonable level without it (like the Tweedle” would be great).
Probably a bit of a pause until I can get the iron here I think…
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Your explanation of it on the Hoffman site made it easy. I just took my time and tried to fit everything on there juuuust right. Took a little while but wasn’t as bad as I first thought it would be. The hint about putting the leads on first was invaluable. I’m the guy who often doesn’t see the obvious, lol.
I built Steve’s AC15r with reverb that he made a schematic for, it’s a great amp that has that “something”factor to it it’s hard to describe
I incorporated that rotary switch. Once I found the tone I like I never touch it, but its fun hearing all the different tones it does do
Good luck with your build
joeboo88 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2024 2:45 am
I built Steve’s AC15r with reverb that he made a schematic for, it’s a great amp that has that “something”factor to it it’s hard to describe
I incorporated that rotary switch. Once I found the tone I like I never touch it, but its fun hearing all the different tones it does do
Good luck with your build
Hi - great timing!
Actually spent the week before Christmas building the cab - and my transformers arrived earlier today(!). Got the final chassis holes cut out and drilled today as well as the painting done and plan to jump back in tomorrow.
Now the real fun begins! Pictures tomorrow for sure.
Ok, amidst the post holiday clean-up - I got a little done today:
- Pots and switches populated to the extent possible - then installed
- Tube sockets, IEC, and lamp installed along with ground lugs and stand-offs
- Test fit chassis into cab
- Test fit the transformers to check overall layout
Thinking I might opt for the artificial center tap on the heaters. My plan is to run the PT heater leads to the terminal strip near the rectifier socket, then run heaters along the back wall and send the lamp feed along the left side wall (from the rear). I’m planning to run the ACT resistors off the lamp to the grounding lug next to it unless there’s a better alternative.
You’ll see some janky holes in the pic. The BUD chassis is soft and the step bit grabbed harder than expected a couple of times (rectifier socket hole). Coming up with chassis alternative ideas just in case this one crumples under the weight (hopefully not).
More tomorrow!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
- Tube sockets populated with jumpers and resistors (I always forget to figure the jumper lengths into the board leads)
- Heater wiring in up to the terminal strip by the PT
— The plan is to run the PT heater taps into the bottom eyes, then connect the tube sockets and lamp feed to the loops on top
- Heater balance/artificial center tap resistors in at the lamp
- In lieu of the can cap, came up with a board using 33uf radials and secured the power ground point under one of the stand-offs
- Came up with simple reinforcement for the PT as well as the OT when it’s time (hope it helps)
Probably a few other odds n’ ends that escape me right now as well. Compared to the ODS’s, these smaller amps move pretty quickly once you have everything on hand.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Today I sorted out some stand-off height issues and some other small details related to assembly and got the PT wired up. This is about the time I look at the build and think “Ok, what have I forgotten…” lol.
I think I’m ready for the board - but the OT has to be hung first due to fastener access issues. Good time to stop and think for a bit.
IMG_0410.jpeg
Happy New Year folks!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
You're at the point where I usually plug into the wall with no tubes installed. Test the power switch operation. Measure for correct voltages on the rectifier pins 4 to 6 (high voltage), and pins 2 to 8 (5V). Then measure 6.3V filament voltage at every tube socket.
If all good, then plug in all tubes and verify you can see filaments. May need to dim the room lights. Then check for B+ on the cap board. Take care of any abnormal readings now. Make a mental checkmark that says the mains wiring and power supply are working properly. May come in handy later on when the circuit becomes a bit more complex.