Hey gang....
Stevem wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2023 10:48 pm
Is pin 1 on your 6sj7 tied to the it’s metal case?
I wonder if grounding that might help?
I knew better but let it slide. Now grounded but no improvement.
didit wrote: ↑Tue Apr 18, 2023 4:45 pm
Once through again noticing that L1 is not the 159P in my build, but the significantly smaller 159M.
I had both the 159P and 159M. I grabbed the 159M and went that way. (Brain glitch.) I replaced the M with the P. Probably more robust but, no noise improvement. When doing this I noticed that the L1&2 leads were close to PR2&3. Moved them out of the way as much as possible. I know this isn't a good thing but, since there was no improvement when I unfastened all the pots and put them "over the side" I don't think it's the issue.
Put the OT back in place, as-well-as the dangling Pots. No more wires hanging over the edge of the chassis.
Got pokey with the scope.
Working back from V2 P1; 120Hz on junction of R5, R6, C11 also R5, C8 junction. Nothing on other side of C8 or R6.
120Hz on RP2 wiper, cw side and ccw side. Since the ccw side is ground I started checking the ground buss.
On the components what I'm seeing is pretty much represented by the scope trace shots I've posted.
Similar trace on the ground buss but with out the spikes. Not a classic sine wave but, maybe, 120Hz superimposed on 60Hz? A little less than 5mv.
I have no idea what a ground buss signal should look like.
I thought about building the circuit around RP2 on a piece of perf board and splicing it in place of the existing parts. What do you all think?
Thanks again for hanging in there.