Change the caps under the "can" at a minimum, along with the bias cap. When one of them goes it could spew acid (electrolyte) that could leak onto a speaker. This happened in my '71 SFDR before I bought it and permanently ruined some of the paint on the original speaker frame.
41 years is long enough.
'68 Super Reverb....Recap?
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
Re: '68 Super Reverb....Recap?
If it says "Vintage" on it, -it isn't.
Re: '68 Super Reverb....Recap?
The cardboard sleeves come off pretty easy; you just have to uncurl one end with something pointy. They'll usually fit over new ATOM caps (but you sometimes have to remove the blue plastic insulator). On some Supers from this period, the main caps were still 70uF (2 x 70uF in series = 35uF). That's not enough -- a Deluxe Reverb with half the power had 40uF. Fender eventually went to 100uF (for an effective 50uF). You should, too.
Definitely replace the bias cap (and up the voltage rating to 100V).
Leave the cathode bypass caps alone; they aren't electrolytic (the black ones with the red ends and the white Mallory ones used later are tantalum).
Definitely replace the bias cap (and up the voltage rating to 100V).
Leave the cathode bypass caps alone; they aren't electrolytic (the black ones with the red ends and the white Mallory ones used later are tantalum).