David Root wrote:Those Rogers 12AX7s from the '60s are pretty good. Some are actually Heerlen Amperex labeled Electrohome, but the real Rogers with the r factory code made in Toronto seem to be as good and also much cheaper than Bugle Boys. Also usually labeled Electrohome, an old Canadian electronics brand.
Bummer looks like someone culled the Mullards or 7027s and the Rogers before hand. I never knew about the Canadian Rogers, that explains why they showed up in Traynors. Was Rogers Canadian and not UK? I always thought they were the same company that made Rogers speakers and amps in the UK. I have a bunch of their 12X7, I thought they had Mullard markings but now I'm curious to check.
Never realized how fully Canuck Tranyors were: Hammond, Rogers, Marsland - kinda cool, shame I destroyed so many of the things. I really do repent.
Rogers was and still is a Canadian company. My cell phone carrier is Rogers.
The can caps in this amp are Mallory "Made in Canada" too!
OK, I put a plug in the main speaker jack and measured the DCR of the 4, 8 and 16 ohm switch positions. 1 ohm, 0.8, 0.7. So continuity there. Set switch back to 8 ohms.
Put a 6" patch cord in the Send/Return jacks. Checked before and there was full continuity without the patch cord.
Put power to her, controls zeroed, patch cord in place. Rumble, crackling in the speaker but no more dit-dit-dit nor wild volume fluctuations. Plugged in my Tele, getting good clean sound now! Still rumbling & crackling though.
So I will clean those send/return jack contacts.
rp wrote:Here's a trick, a whack with a hammer and a sharp narrow wood chisel will often knock that solder blob to the chassis right up, if you're lucky and the prep was lame it'll snap off the chassis clean as a whistle. Usually it's 2-3 whacks, and be careful not to slip or dig into the chassis as then it'll look like a reptile dentist went at it.
Done that too and it works BUT please choose another tool - - -
OW my carpenter genes are going "Noooo!" Here's a place to use that bent old screwdriver you use for prying up paint can lids, or a cold chisel meant for rocks & masonry. It's good to put a nice edge on either before applying to soldered-on-chassis parts but please spare the woodworking chisel unless you already have a "beater".
I can use a small carving tool I have, I use it for cleaning up edges on drilled holes in aluminum, and it's plenty hard. Not a family heirloom Leo!
I doubled over a piece of 320 sandpaper and dragged it between the +ve and shorting pins on the send/return jacks, seems to work now without the patch cord. I also tightened the jacks down to the chassis a little, did not change ground lug resistance to chassis but it doesn't hurt.
Still rumbling & crackling, but the tone on my Tele is surprisingly good for a PA circuit. Into an Altec 417B, which helps.
Leo_Gnardo wrote:Done that too and it works BUT please choose another tool
Leo, in this case anything blunt won't work as well. You need to slide btwn the solder and the chassis. If you're lucky the blob will snap off the chassis (someone at the factory didn't clean and prep it very well ) failing that the sharp chisel will just as well cut the soft solder away from the chassis, you can actually shave it off with some gentle taps like carving wood. Something blunt like a screw driver will work if the prep was really poor, but it's is more likely to not catch the solder and slip and scratch.
Not saying you should use your finest or only wood chisel, but thanks to China and Megalomarts tools is cheap now.
Otherwise I'm with you:
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I wedged a utility razor blade between the chassis and the base of the filter caps and hammered on it with a piece of 1/4" flat stock. Consumed four razor blades but it worked. Cleaned up the mounting hole edges with a Unibit on my drill press. Drilled for the cap clamps and installed & wired up the new JJ caps. Put in new grounds for both.
Still have rumbles & crackles, and now no signal. DC voltages change a little ~10V or so with pops & crackles. Big pop wnen I touch my DMM to the PI entrance cap. Also if I tap the chassis with the DMM +ve probe I get a microphonic sound. Moving leads on V3 especially pin 7 creates more crackle & pop. Bypassing the send/return jacks with a patch cord makes no difference.
I'm wondering if there is some DC loose where it shouldn't be. Need to put a sine wave into the amp and start pulling 12AX7s, but I am suspecting something around V3 is not kosher.
rp wrote:Here's a trick, a whack with a hammer and a sharp narrow wood chisel will often knock that solder blob to the chassis right up, if you're lucky and the prep was lame it'll snap off the chassis clean as a whistle. Usually it's 2-3 whacks, and be careful not to slip or dig into the chassis as then it'll look like a reptile dentist went at it.
Done that too and it works BUT please choose another tool - - -
OW my carpenter genes are going "Noooo!" Here's a place to use that bent old screwdriver you use for prying up paint can lids, or a cold chisel meant for rocks & masonry. It's good to put a nice edge on either before applying to soldered-on-chassis parts but please spare the woodworking chisel unless you already have a "beater".
A good sharp chisel will go through lead like butter maybe your chisels ain't sharp enough?or more likely crap steel. Nobody allowed to ax me how I nose.
Seems you are anxious to replace the filter can, which is needed but, the rumbling/noises are not caused by the filter cap. Sounds like you need to properly clean everything. Pots, jacks, sockets etc. The noises are likely a tube issue.
Thanx Bruce. I talked again with the owner. He says he cleaned the tube sockets but did not check to see if they needed retensioning. I'll check that tomorrow especially on V3 and I'll blow out the pots while I'm at it.
Perhaps the socket clips for pin 7 on V3 are loose or broken?
I checked all the tubes on my tube testers and they test OK. But I will look again at V3 tube, and wiggle the others too.
rp wrote:
Not saying you should use your finest or only wood chisel, but thanks to China and Megalomarts tools is cheap now.
Otherwise I'm with you:
Now that Mr. Root has disposed of his rice krispies -
yes rp & cbass, I agree, blunt doesn't work for whacking out chunks of chassis solder. FWIW I do sharpen my cold chisel or old bent screwdriver (hail the best tool in the shop) for these jobs. Even tho our Chinese friends may have a store full of tools at disposable prices nearby. Heck guys, I'm just trained this way from early childhood, yes "the right tool for the job." I sure wouldn't go hammering on razor blades, but I'm glad it all worked out without injury.
Traynor pre tubes, several times my crustomers and I have been disappointed after finding some prizes in an old Traynor: "Hey look it has 3 Mullards!" Then they turn out to be good for maracas, they're so rattly.
) failing that the sharp chisel will just as well cut the soft solder away from the chassis, you can actually shave it off with some gentle taps like carving wood. Something blunt like a screw driver will work if the prep was really poor, but it's is more likely to not catch the solder and slip and scratch. 
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