Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
The only thing I've seen worse is the use of duct tape instead of electrical tape.Phil_S wrote:Oh, that's fugly. I don't think anyone here will disagree with you on the tape and the caps. Tape had no place in there. Ewwww.
I got it wired up and the neutral does have continuity to ground.martin manning wrote:I think this will do it. Once wired up this way I suggest putting a multimeter set to measure ohms across the AC line and neutral, and cycling the power switch through all its positions. You should see infinite resistance (open circuit) in the off position and the resistance of the PT primary on all other settings. Also check that neither side has continuity to ground in any switch position. You'll have to find a spot to attach the safety ground to the chassis, preferably on its own dedicated screw.
I'm a moron...I thought you meant to check with the amp plugged in!martin manning wrote:You have continuity from neutral to ground with the amp unplugged? That should not be, as the primary circuit should have no possible connection to ground with the ground cap gone. What is that ceramic cap doing there? That does not appear in the schematic. Be sure you haven't inadvertently made contact between the terminal with the neutral and the PT lead and the body of the switch or with the adjacent terminal.
If there is no obvious path to ground, disconnect the white neutral wire and the PT lead from the side terminal of the rotary switch and see whether the path to ground is through the PT lead, the neutral lead, or the switch.
In your photos, the neutral is connected through the fuse to one PT lead and to the side terminal on the switch, and the hot lead is connected to the terminal on the back of the switch. In the new scheme the neutral and one PT lead go directly to the same side terminal of the switch, and the hot lead goes through the fuse to the same terminal on the back of the switch. The only difference is that the hot lead is fused instead of the neutral.