where to go to to have faceplates made?

[label-n-gravy]

We were wondering why we had 2 people within the last couple of weeks coming to us for amp faceplates, but now we know why.
Thanks very mucho for the business, we really appreciate it.
Doing these faceplates adds a little excitement to the label world, we would be glad to work with anyone looking for some inexpensive and quality looking plates for their amps. Give us a try, if you find out your in a bind.

Austin Wilkie
austin@panelcraftinc.com

[xtian]

Nice work, Austin and Kyle! That "monkey" plate on the right is mine, and what you show here is the 50% scale run. The fine lines on my controls were half-point lines in my artwork, meaning they're quarter-point lines on this half-scale run! WOW! That's really fine detail.

Also worth a mention that these cost HALF of other options.

Can't wait until it arrives.

[surfsup]

I see the website says autocad. What do you require? Dxf, dwg, iges? For cutouts, how should the cad layout be? Can you post some specific info, or examples of a dxf that we can see, so we know what you need to make a faceplate?

[M Fowler]

Very nice looking plates and I like the fact I could get some brown Fender type of plates from this source. Hmmm

Mark

[xtian]

@surfsup: about file formats, I sent EPS (because I used Adobe Illustrator), but Kyle said they also take DWG and DXF.

I simply drew circles where I wanted holes, and Kyle knew what to do.

[ToneMerc]

Very nice looking plates and I like the fact I could get some brown Fender type of plates from this source. Hmmm

Mark

I know right!

TM

[label-n-gravy]

When you draw up your faceplate, just draw everything in "Layer 0".
If you need, lets say a 1/2" hole cut out, just draw a 1/2" hole, and put something around it to let us know it needs to be cut out.
As long as you have the art work you are wanting, drawn up with the correct dimensions you are wanting, we will then send you a proof for you to check out.
When we proof it, we will send you the dimensions, the layout, and show all cut outs.

Just draw up something and send it to us, along with any artwork you are wanting on it, and we can usually handle the rest

[Structo]

So, say you order a front panel using Gravoply 2.

It is .001" foil.

Do you then just stick it on the front of the chassis?

Seems like peeling any adhesive paper off the back would risk ruining it.

Also, what do most of you guys do?

Order the faceplate before drilling the holes in the chassis then use the faceplate as a drill guide?

I know it would be my luck to drill the panel then order the faceplate only to find out it doesn't fit the holes I drilled previously...

[label-n-gravy]

We use Gravoply Ultra, which is UV Stable and Laser Engravable. Our laser machine works just like a printer. Whatever you send us is how it will engrave, the laser cuts out the holes in the faceplate
- I think as long as the dimensions are correct, such as hole sizes and spacing, the faceplate would fit good

[martin manning]

I have done the matching two ways: 1) drill the chassis to the nominal dimensions, and order the faceplate with finished holes to those same dimensions. This way the holes in one or the other have to be adjusted (enlarged or ovalised) to fit. 2) Order the faceplate with finished holes and use it as a template to mark and drill the chassis. This gives a better shot at everything lining up if the holes in the chassis can be located and drilled accurately, and this is my preferred method.

M Fowler has said he orders the faceplate with pilot holes only and then drills the faceplate and chassis simultaneously. This will ensure alignment, but I fear scratching the faceplate when doing it that way.

[M Fowler]

I have done the matching two ways: 1) drill the chassis to the nominal dimensions, and order the faceplate with finished holes to those same dimensions. This way the holes in one or the other have to be adjusted (enlarged or ovalised) to fit. 2) Order the faceplate with finished holes and use it as a template to mark and drill the chassis. This gives a better shot at everything lining up if the holes in the chassis can be located and drilled accurately, and this is my preferred method.

M Fowler has said he orders the faceplate with pilot holes only and then drills the faceplate and chassis simultaneously. This will ensure alignment, but I fear scratching the faceplate when doing it that way.

So far I have not had any scratch incidents but I always fear that too

I do order full size hole faceplaces as well but it's such a bitch with drill bit drift when drilling etc. So when I design my own plates using FrontpanelExpress I only order them with pilot holes. Step bits work the best on all materials I have found.

Mark

[M Fowler]

Austin,

What color brown is that faceplate in the above photo?

I would like to get some Fender Style plates made in brown.

Mark

[Reeltarded]

Nice work, Austin and Kyle! That "monkey" plate on the right is mine, and what you show here is the 50% scale run. The fine lines on my controls were half-point lines in my artwork, meaning they're quarter-point lines on this half-scale run! WOW! That's really fine detail.

Also worth a mention that these cost HALF of other options.

Can't wait until it arrives.

LOL that is a great looking faceplate.. and now you need a half-scale amp!

[Milkmansound]

my experience with Gravoply is that you can easily widen and skootch a hole over a tiny bit after the fact. Its much easier to add an insulated input jack or something if you want to and widen with a unibit. Dimensions are never perfect

[label-n-gravy]

Austin,

What color brown is that faceplate in the above photo?

I would like to get some Fender Style plates made in brown.

Mark

The brown we used on Milkmans was just regular brown/white ( 29526 )
Their is a Chocolate Brown/White ( 29523 )