Naked Amp

General discussion area for tube amps.

Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal

User avatar
overtone
Posts: 512
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:25 pm
Location: 230V Frankfurt

Re: Interesting

Post by overtone »

Decko wrote:
overtone wrote:That is really very elegant and a real inspiration.
Very neat is how you have dealt with the transformers.
Love all the 3D thinking on this.
Best, tony
Hi Tony,

Thanks for your kind words...
I looked at your work! Impressive!

I can see applying your creations to amp chassis. Especially the forming clear glass or plastic into the frame structures.

Regards
Danny
Danny I was already thinking "now how about some glass..." this afternoon! Profiles with extra slots for glass or plexi are readily available. There are mind-boggling variations of these systems, especially for the automation field. I think I have to build a house out of this soon.

I don't see any 3D connectors or such on your rig, how did you make your three way joints and are your "internal" rails movable?

Thank you for the compliment, I think you saw some of my work where I could really get my own way and take a "clear shot". I love to work with glass.

Cheers to you for showing us the naked amp!
Best, tony
Gaz
Posts: 1146
Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:27 am

Re: Naked Amp

Post by Gaz »

Wow, this is definitely the coolest, most versatile, and practical bread boarding set up I've ever laid eyes one. I'm in aw. I need ones of these! Great job!
Decko
Posts: 309
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:36 pm
Location: California

Re: Interesting

Post by Decko »

overtone wrote:
Decko wrote:
overtone wrote:That is really very elegant and a real inspiration.
Very neat is how you have dealt with the transformers.
Love all the 3D thinking on this.
Best, tony
Hi Tony,

Thanks for your kind words...
I looked at your work! Impressive!

I can see applying your creations to amp chassis. Especially the forming clear glass or plastic into the frame structures.

Regards
Danny
Danny I was already thinking "now how about some glass..." this afternoon! Profiles with extra slots for glass or plexi are readily available. There are mind-boggling variations of these systems, especially for the automation field. I think I have to build a house out of this soon.

I don't see any 3D connectors or such on your rig, how did you make your three way joints and are your "internal" rails movable?

Thank you for the compliment, I think you saw some of my work where I could really get my own way and take a "clear shot". I love to work with glass.

Cheers to you for showing us the naked amp!
Best, tony
Hi Tony,

I figured that you has an affinity for glass! You could use Bosch 45 Series Profile (45mm X 90MM). The 90 mm side will have two T-slots (10 mm)! I was thinking of a green house to grow plants. But as with the "Naked Amp" it has many possibilites for other applications.

My connection method:

I used a rigid quick connector.
Machined a 12 mm bore on the top edge of each leg.
the connection allows you to slip an M4 bolt through the center.
Then mate the M4 bolt to the t-nut which is placed in to the adjoining t-slot.
The pictures will explain it much better.

Another way to do this is to simply drill a hole through the extrusion and insert a self-tapping connection bolt through the first profile and threads into the center bore of the next profile.

I can see an extruded frame with formed glass or formed plexiglass molded around the frame. Use stand offs of various lengths to hold the skin to the frame.

Regards,
Danny
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
overtone
Posts: 512
Joined: Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:25 pm
Location: 230V Frankfurt

Re: Naked Amp

Post by overtone »

I understand, threaded inserts with t nuts. Simple.
The flexibility and use of the DIN Rail and the standard octal relay bases is neat.
It all helps geting a fresh idea up and working without loosing heart while cutting metal.

One thing I found when "bread boarding" with connector blocks, was that there was always an improvement in the sound quality of the amp when finally translated to a fully soldered circuit.
Maybe this was due to a difference between a "loose" build with excess wire runs to mechanical connections compared to a "tight" soldered build. It was one of the things that led me to my mania of pre-wrapping every connection really tight.
I wonder has anyone else has experienced that?
MCK
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:49 am

Re: Naked Amp

Post by MCK »

Bumping this back up because its just that awesome!!!

I've been wanting to do something like this and now I know the best of breed to target.

Decko how is the board working for you? Has there been any revisions, changes? Thanks much for sharing this wonderful achievement.
User avatar
Cantplay
Posts: 982
Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:09 am
Location: Ground Zero NYC
Contact:

Re: Naked Amp

Post by Cantplay »

You'll need a matching speaker cabinet of course.

John
User avatar
LeftyStrat
Posts: 3117
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 6:58 pm
Location: Marietta, SC, but my heart and two of my kids are in Seattle, WA

Re: Naked Amp

Post by LeftyStrat »

This is the second time I have clicked on this thread and not seen boobies.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
User avatar
jelle
Posts: 2391
Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 7:55 pm
Location: New Jersey

Re: Naked Amp

Post by jelle »

At least it is an even number...no wait...
MCK
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:49 am

Re: Naked Amp

Post by MCK »

LeftyStrat wrote:This is the second time I have clicked on this thread and not seen boobies.
Must be your 'puter. Did you try a reboot? :D
Decko
Posts: 309
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:36 pm
Location: California

Revision 2

Post by Decko »

MCK wrote:Bumping this back up because its just that awesome!!!

I've been wanting to do something like this and now I know the best of breed to target.

Decko how is the board working for you? Has there been any revisions, changes? Thanks much for sharing this wonderful achievement.
Hi MCK..thanks for checking in. The basic layout is solid. The screw down terminal blocks do not lend itself to quick interchangeability. I damaged component leads by screwing them down too hard. So I moved to spring clamp terminal blocks. The brand I selected is Wago terminal blocks and they come in single tier or two tier format with top load or side load options. The system has many accessories such as jumpers, grounding etc.

I will load some pics in the nearest future.

Speaker cabs using the extrusions is a cool concept!

Regards,
Decko
User avatar
BIG Dave
Posts: 87
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:56 am
Location: One Hour From Boston!

Re: Naked Amp

Post by BIG Dave »

This is one of the coolest things I've seen in a long time!
BIG Dave: '63 Princeton, '67 SFDR, '68 Marshall 4x12, '71 Marshall JMP50, etc...
User avatar
Cygnus X1
Posts: 915
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:56 am
Location: Midlands South Carolina

Re: Naked Amp

Post by Cygnus X1 »

I've expanded my "Light bulb limiter/transformer testing rig" to include those screw terminals but nothing like this.
Awesome, and worthy of copying!
MCK
Posts: 618
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2009 4:49 am

Re: Naked Amp

Post by MCK »

I completely agree. Decko, thanks much for the update. I look forward to seeing more detail shots when you get a chance. Most appreciated.
EtherealWidow
Posts: 333
Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:47 pm

Re: Naked Amp

Post by EtherealWidow »

The terminal strip still seems like a majorly cool idea to me. What about having permanent wires affixed to stuff like tube sockets, pots, switches, etc, but having the other end be a ring terminal so that you don't smash them? What are the leads that got smashed in the first place?
Decko
Posts: 309
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:36 pm
Location: California

Revisions

Post by Decko »

Hi All,

Thanks for the kind words. I will get more detailed pictures when I install the new terminal block system. I machined a new set of aluminum brackets for the accessories which a plan to black anodize. I also received some new t-nuts which will make movement of components easier around the frame.

The screw down terminal strips are functional but for me not ideal. I noticed that landing more than one lead on the pad was cumbersome. I had to fashion a hook at the end of the resistor or capacitor and when screwing down the lead would slip. So I'd jam a flat head screwdriver against the lead to keep it under the head of the screw. I then tightened down so hard that it broke the leads. Part of the idea of the breadboard was to preserve components so that I could transfer to a final chassis. The other idea was to be able to pop different value resistor, caps or other tone changing components in and out of the board quickly. That is when I discovered spring clamp terminal blocks.

Landing permanent wires with lugs or ring lugs on the off the sockets, pots and switches would be excellent! A concern crossed my mind. Wiring and lead dress seems to be in important ingredient to building any amp. I guess I'd want to keep the design flexible and efficient enough to be able to support that concept.

I'll try to work on this more this week and post the results. Thanks again for the input.

Decko
Post Reply