Turrets are a challenge to solder to

[Colossal]

Zippy,

Did you get the turrets in question from CE/AES? I just want to be sure there isn't another brand/line of turrets out there that aren't wetting out.

Thanks.

[David Root]

Last time I used a turretboard was in my DeArmond R15x2, a 4x6V6 build with two separate cathode bias, one for each pair.

I remember especially having trouble getting those two big resistors (Mills 12W) to solder properly, the leads would not take to the inside of the turret holes. I had to hold the iron on much longer than usual (good thing they were 12W rated!). Also in general the solder would bead up as described by others. I use a Weller WES51 at 700 deg F, 50W output. I use Cardas Quadeutectic solder, non-ROHS (thank you billyz for that tip!).

This was a Watts board with double size turrets, I buy turretboards only from Ken, and only with the turrets pre-installed. I had had this board for a couple of years before I used it, so if there is a problem with Ken's turrets it has been going on for a while.

[Zippy]

Zippy,

Did you get the turrets in question from CE/AES? I just want to be sure there isn't another brand/line of turrets out there that aren't wetting out.

Thanks.

Yes.

Perhaps roughing the surface would've helped but I stuffed the board before I heated the iron. I could see, in some instances, that roughening might break a surface oxide. On the other hand, it may give merely a (weak) mechanical connection like glue (with commensurate poor electrical characteristics) rather than the preferred bond.

[ToneMerc]

Can you confirm if your turrets from Watts are his new "custom made for Watts" double turrets with the wider ID holes? I called Keystone to see if they could confirm that they were making them for Ken, but they had no part number on file.

I've just about always used Ken's turrets and I'm using some now on my 18W build. FWIW, I don't think his "larger" turrets are custom made because I ran out once and grabbed a few Keystone 1509-4 from Mouser and they sure look a like Ken's.

Matter of fact, I just mic'd a few of Ken's double turrets against Keystone data, both of which I could insert a .07855 pin gage. The minor differences are on average the swage end is about .010 shorter (.161) vs Keystone .172 and an OD of .114 verses the .112 of Keystone data.

I have noticed with the ones that I have purchased in the last few months or so that they are a bit oversized. In the past when using a .113 bit I would get a nice hand press fit, now with them being .114 and ocassionally .115, I have to tap them in. I only ordered 50 this time, but in the last batch of 200 I encounted a few that were stuck together as if they were still wet when sorted. The coating might be a tad thicker, this would explain the larger OD and possibly the lack of curing.

Nevertheless, I haven't encounted a problem with solder adhension.

TM

[Colossal]

I have some of Ken's older double-turrets and I recently picked up a bag of 500 of Ken's "custom" larger ID double turrets for a member here. The customs definitely had a larger ID but the same OD as the old (both fit a #33 bore hole). Just wondering about the adhesion issue as Ken is reporting that they are US made. I have not had a problem before with either the double or single turrets he has been selling and I presume them to be US made Keystones (?). Thanks for your comments TM.

[azatplayer]

No problem with those turrets Dave. Using kester "44" im using about 330 degrees C. Soldering flawlessly. I will say tho that the bigass hole takes some filling!

[Colossal]

No problem with those turrets Dave. Using kester "44" im using about 330 degrees C. Soldering flawlessly. I will say tho that the bigass hole takes some filling!

Excellent, glad they worked out. I need some myself and was pleased to see the wider ID holes. Will make life easier for junction points with multiple components.

Regards,
Dave

[eddie25]

Interesting, I've been having trouble with my last batch of tube depot turrets. You can actually tell which ones are gonna suck cause they don't look as shiny. I was thinking about e-mailing them to see if others had the same issue, but apparently it's not just theirs. I'll probably just try the sandpaper thing.

[M Fowler]

Mine are the new style Ken Watts double turrets and I thought it was just me having an old fart issues. Then I blamed my new soldering iron and I use Kester 44 solder.

Mark

[Milkmansound]

I have had some problems with this type of turret too - they corrode fast if you keep a stock of them in the open air.

I have been touching them with a small file and that seems to get the corrosion off, and I make sure when soldering to them that they get a nice coat of solder all the way around to prevent future problems.

Not fun - but it could be worse - you could be using eyelets

[surfsup]

The turrets in question are shiny. The dull ones work better. (At least for me)...

So, the ones at AES are okay to get it seems, as well as mouser. Watts and the chinese brand are sketchy. Is this the conclusion?

I liked the watts turrets i got in march, but ken sent me about 10% used turrets to new, and being unusable that really hikes the price.

[jjman]

Chinese Turrets. Who would have thought turrets would be a victim of the missing Chinese QC man.

What material(s) are proper turrets made/plated from? Zinc on copper? What material is suspected in these Chinese turrets? Maybe they added melamine to bring the test results up?

I bought new brake rotors for my car last summer. Mr. QC forgot to check for machining of the surface where the bearing dust caps press on. It was machined tapered instead of being a correct straight press fit. So I had to go buy Chinese units from the other store that sells Chinese rotors.

[RJ Guitars]

I am still guessing to some extent that they are from China. The ones that I have in the photo at the start of this post are from CE Distribution... for those that don't know that is the dealer side of sales for Antique Electronics Supply. Here is a link to the turrets... http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/fox ... m=S-HTUR-A - it doesn't say where they are from but we are probably safe to say that if they were made in the USA they would mention it??

I am curious if it is a coating on them that burns off or an allow coating that just doesn't wet until the temperature is cranked. I was able to use them, I just had to throw a lot of heat at them.

One other characteristic of them is that they don't flare easily on the back side of the circuit board. They have a tendency to split. This doesn't cause any big issue in itself but doesn't look as professional as a smooth flare. I have a very nice press that I use and the smaller Keystone turrets rarely split out like this.

Turrets and eyelets are typically a tin coated brass part... which can mean any number of alloys for either of the metals.

Eyelets are actually easier for me to solder to, which sorta makes sense because they have minimal mass and won't take as much power to heat them up. I do like the flexibility in attaching the parts and the look of the turrets better.

I appreciate all the good info that you guys are throwing out on this thread.

rj

[surfsup]

funny you mention the splits. I noticed that and thought man, RJ must really give em a good whack...

I specifically remember the turrets on the supre were shiny, and very precise-looking compared to the watts turrets. Like they were pressed in a die but there wasn't a die mark from the seam. They almost looked plastic.

[selloutrr]

which way are you trying to solder the turrets?

on the outside wrapping the leg of the component around the turret shaft?
or
bending the leg at a 90 degree angle and filling the hole?

if you are filling the hole, it's quite possible nothing is wrong, it's just a bitch to do. though the spliting flange is questions the turrets quality.

You are probably correct at Tubesandmore if it doesn't say USA it's not.