Baffle cuts for tweed twin 5E8 anyone have a RI to measure ?

[chopstuck]

I'm putting the finishing touches on my 5E8 cabinet. I looked at the pics of the RI baffle and can see 2 perfect circles. Two 12" Jensens just barely fit on that baffle and I'm used to leaving a little "meat" on the sides to strengthen the board. I'm guessing the cutout diameter is somewhere around 10-1/2" diameter. Does anyone have one they could measure ?

[CaseyJones]

Look at mid-'60s Twin Reverb. Fender squared off the edge of the speaker hole to leave a little strength. Then look at late '70s Twin Reverb with round holes. Nothing sucks worse than a broken baffle that's glued to the cabinet. Not much, anyway.

Mounting centers, all expressed as radii 'cuz that's how you'll set yer compass:

Mounting holes, 5 13/16" rad. Think ahead, you might want to locate your mounting centers 22 1/2 degrees off 90 depending on what you're using for speakers.

I use a 5 3/8" rad for the cutout. That's a little on the small side, it masks your speaker surround. Tight on the surround is o.k. unless you're getting so much excursion that the cone hits the back of the baffle.

Oh yeah, if you have a couple 12" speakers mock 'em up before you cut or drill anything. Bear in mind some so called 12" speaker frames are more like 12 1/4".

[chopstuck]

Thanks, I was mocking them up yesterday and had the frames about touching in a diagonal placement. There was just too little wood left on the sides and in-between the drivers with the standard 5-1/2" radius. I have made tweed baffles before and kind of dug the truncated circle look with my supers. My old C12Q Jensens have about 12" frames and 11" inside the gaskit. I will redraw the layout with both 10.5 and 10.75 circles.
I like to double up the material on the edges and have recently been using PL urethane adhesive. The stuff makes the final product stronger than the wood itself and it's pretty cheap at $4.50 a tube at HD. Just don't get it on your hands.