Hey ampbuilders! I am having some problems figuring out how to wire this input jack! The schematics are attached (i think i labelled them correctly). The Cliff jack is a 6-pin switched jack. Much help would be appreciated!
-skyyamps
INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
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-skyy amps
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
If the pictures don't show up, here are the links. I am having trouble deciding which is the tip and the shunt in the schematic.
http://schematicheaven.com/newamps/orange_ad140tc.pdf
http://www.cliffusa.com/datasheet/S2%20JACK.pdf
Thanks
http://schematicheaven.com/newamps/orange_ad140tc.pdf
http://www.cliffusa.com/datasheet/S2%20JACK.pdf
Thanks
-skyy amps
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
It would sure help if you would tell us what you were trying to achieve with that weird-ass switching jack.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
I feel your pain. I found these to be confusing at first, but let's take one step at at time.
First, I'm going to assume this is for a regular mono input. You've got a 6-pin model, meaning that's a stereo jack. You can just forget about the two middle pins.
Second, identify tip and sleeve (ring). The tip is, well, at the tip -- the contacts farthest from the hole where the plug enters the jack. The sleeve is the set of contacts close to the chassis when the jack is mounted. So far, so good. You know tip from sleeve.
The tip carries the input signal to the grid of the first pre-amp tube. The sleeve is typically grounded. Now you know what you need to connect to what. In both cases, you are looking for the unswitched contact to connect, sleeve to ground, tip to grid.
Last is the switch. On a Cliffs style jack, when you insert the plug, the switch is opened. You will see the part of contact that lifts away from the body and remains in contact with the plug. That one is NOT THE SWITCH. The switch is the one that stays put. This is a bit counter-intuitive.
I've included what I think is a good schematic and a typical Cliffs wiring. Beware, Cliffs knock offs may be made backwards (left to right, tip and sleeve are always OK), so take care to note which is the switch. I received an order of these cheap jacks once, and they were not all switched from the same side.
First, I'm going to assume this is for a regular mono input. You've got a 6-pin model, meaning that's a stereo jack. You can just forget about the two middle pins.
Second, identify tip and sleeve (ring). The tip is, well, at the tip -- the contacts farthest from the hole where the plug enters the jack. The sleeve is the set of contacts close to the chassis when the jack is mounted. So far, so good. You know tip from sleeve.
The tip carries the input signal to the grid of the first pre-amp tube. The sleeve is typically grounded. Now you know what you need to connect to what. In both cases, you are looking for the unswitched contact to connect, sleeve to ground, tip to grid.
Last is the switch. On a Cliffs style jack, when you insert the plug, the switch is opened. You will see the part of contact that lifts away from the body and remains in contact with the plug. That one is NOT THE SWITCH. The switch is the one that stays put. This is a bit counter-intuitive.
I've included what I think is a good schematic and a typical Cliffs wiring. Beware, Cliffs knock offs may be made backwards (left to right, tip and sleeve are always OK), so take care to note which is the switch. I received an order of these cheap jacks once, and they were not all switched from the same side.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Switched stereo socket.
The contacts that you observe moving when inserting the plug are the ones represented in the schematic by the top (longer) conductor-line of the upper two pairs, and by the bottom line in the lower pair. These make the physical connection with the jack and break contact from the other conductor of each pair upon insertion of plug. Each of the six lines has an obvious solder connection/mounting lug. The lower pair in drawing is usually the closest to the socket entry.
The contacts that you observe moving when inserting the plug are the ones represented in the schematic by the top (longer) conductor-line of the upper two pairs, and by the bottom line in the lower pair. These make the physical connection with the jack and break contact from the other conductor of each pair upon insertion of plug. Each of the six lines has an obvious solder connection/mounting lug. The lower pair in drawing is usually the closest to the socket entry.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Oh, and looking at schematic logically I would pick pin 1 as tip (signal input). Pins 4 and 5 look like the grounds for each channel.
Question: What have Trace Elliot got to do with Orange Amps or am I mistaking something. (I have a Paul Stevens designed amp; TE Bonneville))
Question: What have Trace Elliot got to do with Orange Amps or am I mistaking something. (I have a Paul Stevens designed amp; TE Bonneville))
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Hey i appreciate the help Ears and Phil!!! 
I will get to wiring and see how it goes!
I will get to wiring and see how it goes!
-skyy amps
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skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Aren't stereo jacks fractionally smaller than 1/4"?
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
Ever use 1/4" stereo head phones? Same thing that's been in every stereo for the past 40 years. I have used these in a lot of builds as at times my suppliers are out of mono jacks. They still work the same, and you can just ignore the center solder tabs.
Eardrums!!! We don't need no stinkin' eardrums!
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skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
I got some oddball stereo plugs in a drawer that work in 1/4" jacks but definitely go in at an angle. I'm gonna measure them.dartanion wrote:Ever use 1/4" stereo head phones? Same thing that's been in every stereo for the past 40 years. I have used these in a lot of builds as at times my suppliers are out of mono jacks. They still work the same, and you can just ignore the center solder tabs.
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: INPUT [JACK] NEEDED!
There very well maybe a connector as you describe. I am no expert on connectors, but I do know about and use 1/4" stereo jacks on a lot of builds. It also gives some options too.skyboltone wrote:I got some oddball stereo plugs in a drawer that work in 1/4" jacks but definitely go in at an angle. I'm gonna measure them.dartanion wrote:Ever use 1/4" stereo head phones? Same thing that's been in every stereo for the past 40 years. I have used these in a lot of builds as at times my suppliers are out of mono jacks. They still work the same, and you can just ignore the center solder tabs.
In fact, I got some Cliff's from Nik a while back that he had clipped the center solder tags on so people wouldn't get confused.
Eardrums!!! We don't need no stinkin' eardrums!